2010 Cruisin', Boozin' and Snoozin' ..... May - Oct 2010

27 May 2010 - 08 October 2010


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Mark on guitar with Liam.....sleeping??? 

So another cruising season has come and gone.  The seasons in the Mediterranean are reasonably short, but this year seemed very short indeed.  We started out later than planned from our last winter port in Valletta on the small island of Malta.  We had been busy painting the coach roof and wanted it finished, it was worth staying for and it looks just great.  Then the season ended sooner than we had hoped too, September and October saw the start of unsettled weather coming through, with the odd front bringing cooler days, longer nights and thunder storms. 

We had a choice - join many of our cruising friends and carry on out of the Med, into the Atlantic, visit exotic Morocco, explore the Canary Islands cross the Atlantic Ocean and be in the Caribbean in time to enjoy a rum punch while listening to steel drums sitting under a palm tree with the sand between our toes by Christmas.  Sure sounds appealing, still does - but there is always next year!!

So here we are, in the lovely town of Cartagena on the southeastern corner of Spain.  We will stay here for the European winter which we hope will be reasonably mild.  We will spend our time (in between boat jobs of course) exploring this wonderful country, trialing as many tapas bars as we can find, improving our somewhat appalling command on the Spanish language and taking as many siestas as necessary to blend in with the locals!!

But now a recap of 2010 ....... This is Cruising the Summer of 2010 -

Picnic in Corsica with the "Windies"

Before we left Malta we thought long and hard about the route we would take through the Western Med.  Several yachts that had travelled through Italy the summer of 2009 and said how extremely busy it was, that the anchorages were poor and often rolly, marinas expensive, how affected the weather is by the fierce Mistral wind, how expensive eating out was... the list was long with few positives.  Then when we were back in Auckland over summer we met with friends George and Merima off Moonshadow who had also cruised Italy in 2009, they agreed with most of the above but their advice - "don't miss it".  

So we took their advice and from the moment we arrived on the east coast of Sicily and anchored under Mt Etna and the stunning hilltop town of Taormina we never once regretted it, Italy was absolutely outstanding and we loved every minute (even the wet ones!!).  Nearly every stop was a highlight:  the bubbling live volcano, smelly mudbaths and beach happy hours at Vulcano, the opportunity to visit ancient buried Pompeii from Agropoli, the beautiful Amalfi coast towns clinging by their toenails to the steep to cliff faces surrounded by vivid green and yellow lemon trees, the pastel painted houses of Procida crumbling down but oh so "Italy".  Then we hit the busy part, crazy Ponza on a long holiday weekend with the armada of incoming boats seemingly endless but there was always room for one more.

Most expensive drinks with "Panthera"

We sailed overnight west to Sardinia, still Italian,  but with a definite independent island feel to it.    On long hot summers days we found deserted bays with clear water and sandy beaches, contrasting greatly with the wealth displayed in the compact area around Porto Cervo, where super yachts easily outnumbered little yachts like ours.  We had a day inland, astounded by the Stone Age ruins we visited, intrigued by the overgrown forests of cork trees. Maybe we should have explored more of Sardinia, we just touched the north east corner and it was beautiful, many anchorages in some sheltered waters, an excellent spot.

It was time for a change of culture and language and we hopped across to Corisca and dusted off the French phrase book.  The well preserved ancient walled towns of  Bonifacio, Porto Vecchio and Calvi and the frequent coastal battlements gave us a great sense of their history.  Our inland travel revealing the lush mountainous interior, sandy banked rivers, stone age ruins - this gem of an island had it all.  Combined with some gin clear waters in appealing bays Corisca was yet another highlight.

Time for a mudbath with White Rose and Sundancer II

Back to Italy visiting the Tuscan Island of Elba, some great anchorages, cute villages, sweet scented pine forests, good weather.   Time for the mainland again to our most secure anchorage weather wise of the season at La Grazie. This Cinque Terra area was jam packed full of interesting excursions - the famous Cinque Terra (Five Villages) coastal walk, a day out by train to Pisa, just a short hop over the hill to Porto Venere and a visit from our friends Helen and David.  Unfortunately the weather changed here after a dreadful long night of thunder/lightening storms and torrential rainfall, it was unsettled for a couple of weeks after and never returned to those long settled summer days.

The Italian Riviera was next, sophisticated Santa Margherita made an excellent base for a few days, nearby famous Portofino as quaint as all the postcards.  Our Italian sojourn was nearing its end, a few days in San Remo just 20 miles from the French boarder was an excellent way to end.  The covered market one of the best I have ever seen in any country.  Sadly it was arrivederci to Italy, we couldn't stay forever.  We enjoyed everywhere we visited, the locals were always welcoming, the food in general every good and pizzas and pasta dishes very affordable, drinks ranged in price from average to outrageous but they normally gave free nibbles with them to soften the blow!  Italy oozes history and  culture, it is a wonderful unrivaled country.  The people have a style and spirit that matches it perfectly.

Celeb spotting in Monte Carlo

I must add that we were extremely lucky for the most part with settled weather.  The west coast of Italy is all a lee shore and any westerly winds leave you with few places to run.  Any strong winds further out in the med will affect the swell so you need to look at a large weather picture on a daily basis.  That said, there are places to tuck in from most conditions but you need to always have a plan B, and often a plan C too. 

I can't move on further before I mention one of the most important factors of why all the above was also so enjoyable.  We cruised in company the entire time, not always with the same boats as we all go different speeds and have different agendas but there was a group of us going roughly the same way and boy did we have fun.  I hope I don't miss anyone but to the following - you made an excellent season even better.    Sundancer II, White Rose, Blue Banana, Eye Candy, Gone with the Wind, Threshold  and Panthera.  Once we left Italy we were on our own except for a couple of rendezvouses with Baracca.  Thankyou all for making our season extra special.

Next it was on to Monaco, what Italy oozes in history and culture, Monaco oozes in wealth.  Our 3 nights in the marina were a highlight of a different kind, never did we think we would be able to afford to marina Balvenie  in Monaco and spend time in this pocket sized Principality.  The wealth displayed just in the cars parked in Casino Square was enough to knock our socks off, then there were the dozens of enormous super yachts parked in a row in the marina, and one look in the estate agents window  indicated 8million Euro as a  'cheap' one bedroom apartment - this is definitely not somewhere the likes of us retire!!!!  But it was fun, not ostentatious or stuffy - just for rich people who like to enjoy showing their wealth.

Porto Cervo with Eye Candy and GWTW

It is was time to cruise the French Riviera and the Cote d'Azur, famous names that just roll off the tongue.  We started in Villefranche a popular anchorage near to Nice, a small scenic town ashore.  Relatives Neil and Barbara stayed a couple of nights and we had a chance to explore inland, visiting tiny rural villages located so close to the busy coast but a million miles away in reality. From Nice westwards the coastline was extremely busy much more built up than I had envisaged, huge apartment complexes lined the foreshore, marinas every few miles, very few nooks and crannies to anchor in, and often a swell from one direction or the other would sneak in.  Then there was more unsettled weather, it was only the beginnng of September but we never experienced those famous unbearably hot calm days on the French Riviera.

I fell in love with France over 20 years ago when I first backpacked there, and have returned several times since.  I had been looking forward all season to cruising its coastline, soaking up the culture, practicing my French and sampling the French cuisine.  Now I felt a traitor to France, this coastline didn't reflect the France I loved and we both missed Italy.  The cost of living was high, fruit and vegetables seemed especially so, eating out cheaply was almost impossible, happy hour drinks and coffees were almost affordable dependant on where you were!!  The weather wasn't kind to us, Mistrals kept howling.  We could see no value in heading along the coast further westwards and into the eye of Mistral territory so we took the opportunity of a short lull in the winds and headed south overnight to Spain's Balearic Islands.  We had spent only 12 nights on the French coast.

Can Mark get beer out of Threshold's steering system???

Our stay in the Balearics was slightly longer, just 3 weeks.  We spent time in Menorca and Mallorca and explored them both.  We enjoyed sleepy Mahon and found Palma a classic, interesting, very European city - with a central market to rival San Remo.  We only stayed one night on Ibiza, it is more of a beach/party island, and although still warm enough when in the sun and out of the wind, summer was on the wain.  There are many anchorages in the Balearics, most of them small calas (coves), often deserted ashore or maybe with a tourist development.  It is more of a summer destination than a touring one so we didn't experience them at their best.  More adverse weather, this time an extensive system lasting days was heading our way.  We considered marinaing in Ibizia for a few days to sit out the weather but heard rumours of yachts our size still being quoted 300Euro a night, and this was now October!  So here we are, back to the top where we started, Caribbean or Cartagena. 

Looking lopsided in Portofino

We have been in Cartagena on the south eastern corner of Spain over a week now and were feeling quite settled, until this morning.  I managed to tune into the "rum runners net", a HF Radio net our friends have started up and are checking into as they move westwards, Gone with the Wind and Moonshadow were about to arrive in Morocco, Beyond, Stardust and several others about to join Cristata in the Canaries.  Today we are feeling somewhat left behind, but we have Spain to explore and much more - that rum punch will just taste all the sweeter next year!!!

Countries and Principalities visited -  5   Malta, Italy, France, Monaco and Spain
Island Groups visited -  7   Sicily, Aeolean Islands, Bay of Napoli Islands, Sardinia, Corsica, Tuscan Islands, Balearic Islands
Nautical Miles travelled -   1742  (Distance had we gone in a straight line was 767!!)
Nautical Miles motored -   929   Only about 20miles was due to adverse headwinds, balance due to no wind
Nights at sea -   3   Ponza-Olbia,   French mainland-Mahon,   Ibiza-Cartagena
Nights tied up for free on a buoy -   4   Porto Pollo, Pollenca, Porto Petro
Nights tied up for free at a dock -  14   Scario, Agropoli, Olbia, Final Ligure, San Remo
Nights tied up in Marinas -  7   Amalfi, Monaco, Pollenca
Different Anchorages visisted -   60
Strongest winds -  46 knots at anchor in France, 28 knots at sea downwind across the top of Corsica
Fastest speed -   8.6 knots flying across the top of Corsica
Sleepless nights -  less than five (more than one is too many!!)
Rainy days -   Lost count really, but not that many that rained ALL day and this is Europe!!
How much did it cost? -  Done all the numbers and it averaged out at 385Euro per week (this season was 19 weeks).  That includes stocking up the food and drink supplies in Malta before we left there, and starting/finishing with full diesel tanks.  Our biggest expense was eating/drinking onboard 1888E closely followed by eating/drinking out 1545E, diesel ranked next as we did alot of motoring 1300E,  next came sightseeing/local transport 580E, Marinas 372E, small repairs/maintenance/spares 340E, phone/internet 240E, the rest is made up of odds and ends - souvenirs, clothing, laundry etc  

AND THAT WAS THE SUMMER OF 2010

A speedy exit from Corsica ..... July 2010

The ancient Citadel at Calvi

26 - 29 July 2010

Our snug flat anchorage at la Revelatta was such a great spot that we stayed a second night. We dinghied ashore and went for a long walk along one of the many trails out to the headland, swam in the clear waters then sat back and watched all the boats heading in and out of Calvi. The following morning we motored the short distance around, past the spectacular walled citadel and into the anchorage. There is a small, manic, overcrowded marina, outside that is a large area with laid mooring buoys, at 40€ a night we moved on further along the beach to the anchorage area. It's a very long dinghy ride ashore, probably the longest we have ever had, but ok, so it was home for a couple of nights.
We dinghied ashore for the evening, walked up to explore the citadel and were a little disappointed. Previous old towns like this are still the centre of town, with bars and cafes spilling onto the streets, small cute shops and narrow alleys. This was rather a ghost town, with just a handful of buildings occupied as residences and held little charm.

However down at sea level the place was buzzing, there were small lanes parallel to the waterfront oozing with charm and more than making up for the deserted citadel area. Maybe everyone just got tired of having to climb up the hill and relocated to sea level!!! We had an interesting local Corsican dinner ashore including wild boar stew, not exceptional but we have ticked it off the list. We stopped to listen to a solo singer at a small bar but quickly moved on when we wisely asked the price of a beer, 10€ really was just way to ridiculous for a 500ml draught beer, especially when its 60c in the supermarket for 500ml can! Still too early to go home we stopped back down on the waterfront for a nightcap, only 7€ here for a beer, what a bargain - we have paid a new high for a large tap beer.

Calvi waterfront by night

The following day we took the small and very overcrowded narrow gauge railway along the northern coast, stopping at all the beaches enroute, to the small market town of Ile Rousse. This was a cute little place with a bustling morning market, busy town square and packed busy beach. This northern coastline is a campers heaven, the entire coastline was dotted with camping grounds, crystal clear blues seas lapping on white sandy shores. The train ride back was just as busy, everyone with buckets, spades, chilli bins, umbrellas - all enjoying the summer sunshine.

The winds were forecast to fill in overnight from the southwest then build and come around more to the west. We thought most of the anchorages would start to get rolly with a westerly blowing so decided to depart the following morning and maybe head for St Florent 25 miles east which showed the best protection from the west. The morning dawned with no wind but we decided it was time to move on anyway. By the time we had lifted anchor and raised sails we had gusts to 20knots, so with two reefs in the main we bore away and set sail north east, destination undecided.

Northeast Corsica, a different landscape

We had a rather wild sail, across the top of Corsica, dead down wind, with building seas and 25knots of wind. Our planned stop at St Florent did not eventuate, there was too much wind, churning up quite a sea and we felt it wouldn't have enough protection. We had hoped to rendezvous again with Steve and Karen on Threshold who were there, but sadly passed them by. A good decision on our part as they reported the following day several boats had dragged in the anchorage, with some ending up on the beach.
We came around the pointy finger at the top of Corsica within 100 metres of Gone with the Wind, they had left from St Florent and were both surprised to see each other out in these conditions. We both rounded the top and sought shelter at Rade de Santa Maria on the leeward side of the headland, although the water was much flatter we were getting hit by 30knots bullets shooting down the hillside. We managed to anchor out of the swell in shallow water and collapsed in a heap, that had been quite some sail!!

But there was little time to rest, the winds kept building and peaked before midnight at 43 knots, then silence - it died completely giving us a chance for some rest ...... but not for long. A wicked swell rolled in, tipping us from side to side, and if that wasn't bad enough thunderstorms were building and closing in on us, closer with each crack of thunder. The wind swung to the east, only 10 knots but putting us on a leeshore, it was a sandy bottom shallowing slowly so not too much of a concern until the storms closed right in, the wind built, the rain poured down, waves came crashing over Mark on the bow as we lifted anchor - we were out of there in record time. We have never pitched and rolled so much at one time, we had items flying around inside that have never before moved, not a sea state we wish to be in again!!!

Gone with theWind with Calvi Citadel at sunset

It was 5am and dawn was just starting to break, we headed offshore to deeper waters, motoring around the thunder storms and dodging ferries standing off, they too were waiting for better weather before approaching land. We looked at the charts, it was 40 miles to the Italian Tuscan Island of Elba, and that's where we headed. We had seen and done everything we wanted to in Corsica and she just gave us a little push to speed us on our way, au revoir Corsica we have enjoyed our stay.

Cruising info for Calvi and Rade de Santa Maria, Corsica:-
Anchorages -
Calvi 42 33.578N 08 46.638E 7.5m sand, very hard to get closer as no anchoring zone, swimming zones and mooring buoys further in.
Rade de Santa Maria 42 59.701N 09 26.978E 5.5m sand We spent an hour finding the most comfortable spot on this part of the coast for our conditions, normally this should be a lovely spot and looked great walking ashore
Communications - no WIFI, a couple of the cafes ashore gave out 30min connection with a drink. Vodafone Roaming and GYMSIM both had signals
Ashore - Take dinghy into marina, tie up where you can at concrete end (by foothpath), Everything you need ashore, small but adequate supermarket, bakeries, butchers etc all small but good. Fuel dock in marina (comings and goings in marina very very busy)
Formalities - didn't see anyone for our entire stay in Corsica
Sightseeing - The train trip to Ile Rousse hugs the coastline, if you are going to sail along here then it would probably not be worthwhile. If you don't get there early you may have to stand. Departs Calvi 0905, 1105, 1340, 1535, 1810 the return departs Ile Rousse 1005, 1205, 1435, 1710,1910. It's about 50mins each way and 6Euro each, each way.

Corsica's Wild West Coast ..... July 2010

Gone with the Wind pulling in front of Eye Candy

21 - 26 July 2010

Unfortunately we couldn't stay anchored in the crystal clear waters at Cala d'Orzu forever, there were some stronger winds forecast offshore which would send in a unwelcome swell. We headed north in flat seas and a light seabreeze, it was race on again. When Eye Candy popped a coloured sail they started to gain on us slightly, skipper trimming constantly to stay ahead, Gone with the Wind came up from behind, overtaking Eye Candy, then us and surging forward, Australia wins again! We did however go off course a couple of times to allow the leaders of fleet of high performance race boats through, seemed the gentlemanly thing to do even if we forfeited our lead position.

Time out for cafe au lait in Ajaccio

We had decided to take shelter in the harbour at Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica. On entering the anchorage area it seemed everyone else on the west coast had seen the weather report and were in there too, it was very cosy but everyone was sensible with their anchoring and it all worked ok. Ajaccio's a busy city with some rather ugly highrise apartment blocks on the foreshore, a noisy road runs along the waterfront and hearing the constant hum of cars and seemingly endless wails of sirens made us appreciate our previous anchorages even more. It is a functional working town however, with a pleasant old town area complete with twisting alleys and crumbling buildings, excellent daily morning market and the best supermarket right at the anchorage we have seen possibly since we started cruising.

After two nights the winds had passed and we hoped the swells had eased with it, it was hard to tell as we were very protected by 2 headlands and a small group of islands. The skies were steely grey and it really didn't look like a nice day to go sailing. We were eager to keep heading north, ever consious that this is not a coastline you want to be on in unfavourable conditions as there are few all round anchorages.

Feasting on king prawns at €9 a kilo, yummy

Rounding the first headland the seas were still quite flat, we set sails and headed for the pass through the islands and out into open water, and then we hit the swell. A big long lazy ocean swell, unlike any we had experienced in the med before, comfortable enough to sail in but it did not bode well for our chosen anchorage for the night.

The swell was crashing up against the shear cliffs and bouncing back out, we were amazed at how close some yachts were inshore, we gave ourselves plenty of sea space and enjoyed the scenery, even in its gloomy state, from afar. Our first anchorage option at Cargese was basically untenable, we would have got seasick at anchor from the roll and the small marina was too shallow for us, so we backtracked into the bay of Sagone, looking at the chart we didn't have too much hope for anything better but it was a bigger bay and our only other immediate option. We passed two small headlands before entering the bay, and after each one the swell abated some, then the final turn into the bay seemed to cut out most of the roll and we had a reasonably comfortable night. We said our goodbyes to Andrew and Clare on Eye Candy, they were waiting for a guest to arrive and probably wouldn't catch up with us again this season. We had been in their company on and off since Sicily at the end of May and will miss having them around.

Cheese, cheese and more cheese

Next morning we left again in similar conditions, large swell, a sky still laden with threatening clouds but no wind. We bypassed the famous Golfes de Porto and Girolata and just imagined how grand they would look, the rich red sheer cliffs reflected into a glassy sea, brilliant blue sky above - maybe next time. We motored for 6 hours to cover the final 38 miles up Corsicas wild west coast and were relieved to turn the corner of the north east point and find flatter water. At La Revellata we found further shelter tucked behind a small island for the night. We were just a mile from ancient Calvi and much appreciated our flat anchorage, the bar was opened and we sat back and admired the vista of the setting sun shining onto the cream stone citadel at Calvi. We have cruised Corsica's west coast, enjoyed it immensely even if we couldn't stay and explore everywhere we had planned, and we have lived to tell another tale.

Cruising info for Ajaccio and Baie de Sagone, Corisca:-
Anchorages -
Ajaccio 41 55.828N 08 44.955E 16m mud. Tight anchorage and very busy, stay clear of where gas white buoys are, boats were in the no anchorging zone and didn't have problems
Baie de Sagone 42 06.665N 08 41.683E 8m sand. Thought we would roll all night but much better protection from the swell that it looked
Golfe de Revelatta 42 34.301N 08 43.665E 8.5m weed, rock with sand patches
Communications - No unlocked WIFI signals. Vodafone Maltese roaming and GYMSIM worked on SFR signal
Ashore - Didn't go ashore in Baie de Sagone. Ajaccio has the best Carrefour, it huge and has everything right at the anchorage (check out the fresh king prawns). Also a Le Clerc next to it. Excellent market in old town in the mornings,. Banks, ATM's everything you need. Fuel station ashore but didn't need diesel
Formalities - none

Straits have the last laugh ..... July 2010

16-21 July

Bonifacio buildings clinging to the cliffs

It was finally time to leave Port Vecchio, we had decided to head south and then around the bottom of Corsica and up the west coast if we got calm enough conditions. We had a easy day and just motored the 12miles to our first anchorage at Porto Rondinara. We had seen post cards of this picturesque horseshoe bay with a beautiful white sandy beach and crystal clear waters and it did not disappoint, it was a lovely spot for the night, we could have stayed longer. However the winds were forecast to stay light so we decided to move on the following day and try and anchor at Bonifacio in the compact free area. Both Eye Candy and Gone with the Wind were in front of us, the winds were building in the straits and we got another free salt water washdown before we entered through the narrow gap between the cliffs into Bonifacio harbour. The small designated anchorage area was reasonably empty but there have been bow lines laid which ran back to the solid cliff wall, so instead of dropping anchor you need to position the boat, hold station, one person dinghy ashore, retrieve first one then the second bow line, get back onboard, attach these to the bow, then take stern lines ashore again by dinghy and attach them to rings or rocks. If this sounds tricky, well it is! Eye Candy were in first and needed help getting the lines. We dropped our dinghy and Mark motored over to help them, while I, my first time alone on Balvenie under way and helming went backwards, forwards, round in circles in the very tight area within the harbour entrance, trying desperately to keep out of harms way!!

Eventually Eye Candy were settled but the wind had increased more and was now coming in beam on, we decided it would be too difficult to try and get Balvenie tied up without a bow thruster, even with Eye Candy's help, so we abandoned Plan A. Plan B was to anchor in either of the 2 anchorages just west of Bonifacio but Gone with the Wind had checked them out while we were helping Eye Candy and reported that neither were tenable with the building wind, Plan C was to carry on 30 miles up the northwest coast, beating into the building sea - that was quickly dismissed and Plan D was formulated, we turned around and headed back in the direction we had come from.

Ready for the gun outside Bonifacio

We rolled out the headsail and sailed downwind back through the straits, turned north into much calmer water and looked to anchor. The first anchorage was getting bullets of over 30 knots so on we went. 6 hours after leaving Porto Rondinara we anchored just 3 miles south of it at Plage de Balistra, in flat water but the wind still howled over 25 knots and there we stayed for 2 nights sitting it out. We managed shore leave the following day for a short time and walked along the lovely long white sand beach, this was a remote area with one small shacky bar ashore, a few campervans parked, some hardy experienced windsurfers and little else except for a few nudists at the end of the beach.

The wind eased so we decided to give the Bonifacio Straits another try, leaving early before the seabreeze kicked in we motored through the straits in flat water, what a difference a couple of days and no wind can make. A yacht race was taking place outside Bonifacio and if I didn't know better I might have thought we were actually competing in it, once a racer - always a racer! As the wind filled in we were able to sail northwest, only tacking 10 times (no we weren't racing, this was just for fun!!), and we covered the 42 miles to Campomoro without the Bonifacio Straits beating us up again.

West coast from Campomoro's watchtower

The anchorage was busy, we were surprised as this west coast is much more open to the elements, and when the swell rolls in it has come all the way from the Spanish coast but the French sailors are a hardy bunch and there were plenty of yachts of all shapes and sizes on their annual sailing holiday. It was a great anchorage, deep in places but well sheltered, flat water, a pleasant village ashore, a great watch tower perched out on the headland and some well signposted coastal walks. We spent most of the following day there then did a short hop across the bay to Porto Pollo. The bay is full of official visitor mooring balls so we hooked onto one, no one came for payment and there was nowhere visible ashore to pay so we happily excepted it as being free. It was another laid back small town with a couple of camping grounds and a holiday feel to it. We had dinner ashore then next morning tried to organise a car/taxi/motorbike - anything really - to visit the megalithic monuments at Filitosa. They are from 4000BC and are related to the stone statues at Stonehenge and are supposed to be excellent, we will never know as it impossible to arrange any sort of transport to visit the site, oh well we haven't missed much else and we did try.

The clear blue waters of Cala d'Orzu

Weather conditions were still settled so we took the opportunity to keep heading north, and had a leisurely sail all of 8 miles to paradise. We had spotted a bay on the chart and read it in the guide book, it sounded ok but nothing special but when we pulled into Cala d'Orzu and could see our anchor buried in the white sand 8 metres below we felt like we had returned to the Pacific. There were even a couple of shacky bars ashore with driftwood decking, fishing nets hung for decoration, all very cool. It was totally open to the west but we had ideal conditions and relaxed there for 2 nights, it truly was one of the most beautiful, unspoilt, quiet spots we have had in the med.

Cruising info for Porto Rondinara, Plage de Balistra, Campomoro, Porto Pollo and Cala d'Orzu:-
Anchorages -
Porto Rondinara 41 28.167N 09 16.266E 7.5m sand some weed. Watch out for the charted but unmarked rock in the middle of the bay, one yacht went right on it, not a good look or sound! (Eye Candy got it all on video)
Plage de Balistra 41 26.023N 09 13.645E 6.5m sand and weed. Good to sit out a blow from the west
Campomoro 41 38.255N 08 48.788E 13m sand and weed. Quite deep look for shallow pockets
Porto Pollo 41 42.541N 08 48.053E 16m but on new blue mooring buoy, about 40 buoys, free it seemed (20 July so peak season), no lines on buoy so either find a friend to help, back up or jump overboard
Cala d'Orzu 41 44.146N 08 42.215E 8.5m sand, we were inside the yellow buoys as was everyone else. The white floating thing that looks like a big cup and saucer is a rubbish bin!
Communications - No unlocked WIFI signals anywhere. Maltese Vodafone roaming and SFR signal on our GYMSIM both ok
Ashore - Campomoro had small grocery shop, mobile butcher and bakery. Porto Pollo a good supermarket that you could land dinghy on beach in front of. Don't remember seeing ATM anywhere. The others just had small beach bars
Formalities - Gone with the Wind were boarded by French Customs in Plage de Balistra who asked to see ships papers and passports. They went through there cruising guide and showed them the best places to stop! We were anchored about 50metres away and did not get a visit