Showing posts with label Greece - Mainland Gulfs and Ioanian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Greece - Mainland Gulfs and Ioanian. Show all posts

2009 Cruisin', Boozin' n Snoozin' ..... Apr - Sept 2009


View Balvenies 2009 Voyage in a larger map

A final get together with Ascension, Djarrka,
Stardust and Gone with the Wind
12 April - 28 September 2009

When we pulled out of Netsel Marina, our home for winter 2008 - 2009 the days were clear and we were well into spring.  Balvenie was all ready for another summer season, or so we thought.  Then during a couple of nights at anchor in Marmaris Bay a few little niggles popped up and delayed our departure a little longer but it also gave us a chance for more farewell dinners.

Our plan for the beginning of season was to make our way up through the Greek Islands in the Aegean Sea, alternating with anchorages on the Turkish Coast to Ayvalik where we would marina Balvenie and travel by car to the battlefields of Gallipoli.  Then we hoped to island hop our way back down the Greek Islands and head out of the Aegean Sea before the infamous meltimi started blowing, around mid June.  So - off we went!! 

In the crater at Nissyros
The first event of the season was sharing Easter celebrations at the lovely Greek Island of Symi with White Rose and Gone with the Wind enjoying the spring sunshine on Easter Sunday with a very long lazy Greek lunch of Roast Lamb on a spit. 

Time to part company with our friends for now, off we went and explored the small volcanic island of Nissyros where we hired a moped and putted slowly up to the top of the volcano then hiked down into it's steamy and bubbling belly.   Back across to Turkey - a couple of nights in touristy Bodrum was enough for us so another Greek Island was sought out and we headed to a peaceful spot on Kalymnos.  
Gordon and Mark overlooking
 Patmos Harbour

We nibbled away at the miles, heading a little further north each time, stopping at some ramshackle spots where it looked like the locals just left town and headed for the big city - never to return. Then there was lovely Patmos, the economy injected with a steady flow of tourist euros as the cruise ships came and went.  We caught up with our good Canadian friends Gordon and Ginny on Ascension here, it will be a long time before we see them again, as they are heading for the Caribbean this season.  


Days passed, as did the miles north.  The white sugar cube Greek houses were left behind as we headed back to the Turkish coastline enjoying often deserted anchorages, one where we soaked in bubbling hot baths from Roman times.  We took inland excursions past fields of spring flowers to ancient cities and well preserved ruins, all the time appreciating the beautiful late spring days and settled weather.
At anchor off Anzac Cove, Gallipoli

 We changed our plans in Ayvalik, the weather was to be settled a tad longer, just long enough for us to sail to Gallipoli. Although neither of us lost relatives in the long battles during the First World War at Gallipoli, it is a huge part of our history,  the opportunity of taking Balvenie and anchoring her off Anzac Cove was one we wouldn't pass up.  Spending three days in the area and taking in hours of walking around the battlefields, climbing through the trenches, strolling through some of the thousands of gravestones amongst the fields of blood red poppies in flower, reading the history of the tragic event at the museum, it all gave us a better understanding of what happened, but it can never really answer WHY?
Back to Greece

We finally said our farewells to Turkey and headed back to Greece, out to Limnos in the Northern Aegean.  It was the end of May - the days were getting longer, the temperatures rising and the sun shone every day.  The Greek Islands have a myriad of cosy coves with cute white washed villages, brightly coloured bourgainvillea exploding in all directions, fishing nets lie in bundles along the quaysides, cats lounge about awaiting the catch of the day, calamari hang drying in the sun, elderly widows really do sit on chairs outside their front doors dressed only in black -  yes you really can find all those scenes from Hollywood blockbusters in most of the small Greek Islands, it's their everyday life.

We sailed from island to island, from tiny quiet Evstratios with not a tourist in sight to Mykonos the party island, where scantily clad "go go dancers" strutted their stuff on table tops, and overcooked tourists laid back drinking cocktails and shooters  in the late afternoon sun.  The Greek Islands sure do cater for every taste!! 
Balvenie at Santorini,
it doesn't get much better than this

We were moving south through the island chain, and another weather window presented itself as chance no 2 to go somewhere on the "must see list".  The amazing island of Thira, much better known as Santorini, is the absolute jewel in the crown of all the Greek Islands.  We could not miss this opportunity and set sail south from Paros, arriving late afternoon inside the crater walls of this stunning submerged volcano.  It is difficult for me to describe the beauty of Santorini, it is a living canvas.  From the boat by day we stared at the stark volcanic walls, soil lines recording its explosive history.  By night we watched the full moon rise, the stark white sugar cube houses glowing in its reflection a truly magical vista.  The villages lie perched high above the sheer cliffs, tiny white houses cling to the cliff sides, sometimes it seems that the creeping plants are all that is attaching them.  The beautiful "med blue" church domes mirror the water shades, everywhere you look the scene is perfect, it is full of moments and images that will be remembered always.


Transiting the Corinth Canal
 Summer was on our doorstep, bringing with it the strong northerly meltimi winds, we grabbed another reasonable weather window and headed northwest, the last few islands all seemed to have the same names as they passed by in a dazed blur.  We made it out of the Aegean mid June as planned, and spent some time in the sheltered waters of the Saronic Gulf, relaxing in the lovely spots of Poros and Aegina.  We visited Athens by ferry, it was a second visit for us so we crammed revisiting all the city sights into a day and left exhausted.

Next we moved west and through the Corinth Canal, a short, expensive but very convenient option and popped out the other side into the Gulf of Patras.  We had a lovely time in this area, tying up to towns quays and unfinished frees marinas along the way.  Galaxidi was a gem of a spot, a cute little town, and a bus ride away from the ancient city of Delphi - just so much history in these places.  From Messalongi  we took in more history at the ancient site of Olympia, where we crouched on the starting line and imagined the crowds of toga clad  Greeks cheering us on.
On the starting blocks at Olympia

We moved out into the Ionian, but the tales we had of picturesque islands, warm clear water, gentle breezes, idyllic coves just never quite materialized for us.  The winds were often unfavourable, the anchorages overcrowded but it was now July so everyone was out on the water enjoying themselves .  We did manage to catch up with friends on Samsara and then Aliesha, after cruising all of the season alone it was great to see some familiar faces.  We stopped for a few days in Preveza, happily tying up in another unfinished free marina.  We hired a car and had another inland excursion, enjoying northern Greece - the remote areas close to the Albanian boarder, the mountain region and across to Meteroa where still inhabited ancient monasteries perch high atop sheer stone peaks. 

Rural scene in Montenegro
 We hit Corfu mid July, but the Corfu we saw was nothing like the one I remember from my backpacking days there over 20 years ago.  The old town was beautiful, with little twisting lanes, laundry hanging out windows, window boxes with blooming flowers cascading, a grassy village green - complete with regular cricket fixtures!  The anchorage was ok, close to town and we enjoyed a few days here to finish off our Greek experience.  Greece is a diverse cruising destination with many options - island groups in two different seas, the huge  Peloponnese peninsular and of course the mainland.  We had a few ups and downs along the way but all in all wouldn't have missed any of it.

Mljet National Park, super spot
Mid July saw us head north for our first overnighter of the season, passing by Albania and heading to the tiny country of Montenegro, formerly part of Yugoslavia.  There is a very limited cruising ground here that comprises of a small inland fjord like waterway, it seemed a shame to sail on by so we checked in and checked it out.  We were extremely lucky to get a free berth at the excellent Porto Montenegro Marina.  It is a brand new facility still in the finishing stages so they weren't charging, a bonus for us.  It's in a great spot right in the small local town of Tivat so we based ourselves there for 10 nights and explored Montenegro by bus and hire car and really enjoyed this beautiful mountainous country. 

Next was Croatia, all advice had been "don't go in August - it's very busy", and here we were, checking into Cavtat in Southern Croatia on the 28th of July - oh well, what can you do???  Croatia had some real highlights, it was beautiful and green, some of the National Park anchorages reminding us of home.  The walled towns ashore were stunning, when you consider the very recent devastation of war endured by most of this country it was truly amazing to see how well the population has come together again, rebuilt their lives and their surroundings and carried on with their life.  
A classic scene in Croatia

Sadly there were several negative aspects to our cruising here - the grossly overcrowded anchorages, the wind bullets that shot through most nights creating havoc with yachts dragging just when we wanted to go ashore, the poor anchoring techniques of a huge percentage of the charter boat fleet and the totally inconsistent and erratic requirement to pay to anchor in many of the bays, having already paid a substantial fee for a cruising permit.    

However we have very fonds memories of Croatia also, particularly Trogir, Split, Hvar and Korcula for their enchanting walled old towns - nowhere else we have seen can compare. We will remember too the many wonderful free concerts we attended, under starlit skies, in ancient open air theatres - truly magical.

In the end the crowds got to us and we aborted plans to continue north through Croatia and onto Venice. We arranged a rendezvous with several friends, had a big reunion and some fun for a few days then headed south, checked out of Croatia and did an overnight passage across the Ionian and arrived in Brindisi, Italy.
Patron Saint week in Brindisi

Oh what a breath of fresh air, the Italians are such a vibrant, bubbly, alive race of people and it just rubs off. We loved Brindisi - another free town quay, the pasta, pizzas, gelato, wine, language, crumbling buildings, art, ancient history - the list just goes on. Our friends on Destiny and Argos were there too, it's always great to have company. After being in the Med for 16 months and having visited 4 countries on its shores, we finally felt we were in Europe and soaked it all up.

Cruising this part of Italy sure isn't easy though, September was upon us and summer was finished - the weather had changed. We tiptoed our way down to Siracusa in Sicily, having some pretty sporty sails enroute.  The southern coast of Italy is a challenging coastline with few safe harbours but we we covered the miles! The anchorage in Siracusa did not treat us so kindly either with several hiccups to keep us on our toes, the storms just kept on coming through.
Mount Etna huffing and puffing away

Ah - but the town was wonderful, the open air morning market one of the best anywhere and our inland trip to steaming Mt Etna and getting lost inland was unforgettable. We were entertained daily while sitting at side walk cafes sipping on our lattes, watching men in dark suits, with slicked back hair and designer sunglasses, hug each other before getting into dark cars with tinted windows - we felt we were on the set of "The Godfather" every day!! We were in love with Italy!! Sadly there is not a well protected marina here as it would be a great place to winter over, so we had to move on.

Our original plan for wintering over was Cagliari in southern Sardinia, but it was still a few hundred miles away and the stormy weather just kept rolling on through. We took advantage of a lull, and motored all day in calm seas and sunny skies through to the tiny island of Malta. As we entered Valletta Harbour late in the day we were awestruck by the incredible harbour fortifications, we had reached another location with a long long history spanning thousands of years. We had timed our arrival perfectly and squeezed onto the visitors berth at Msida Marina,  - where we were to spend 7 months over the winter of 2009 - 2010.
Phil and Mark on their guitars in Brindisi 

IN A NUTSHELL ....
Countries visited - 6 Turkey, Greece, Montenegro, Croatia, Italy and Malta,
Nautical Miles travelled - 2364
Nights at sea - 3 Greece - Montenegro, Croatia - Italy, Italy -Sicily
Nights tied up for free at a dock - 44 of which 40 were in Greece, we love the free docks in Greece
Nights tied up in Pay Marinas - 16 of which 6 were in Cannakale and 5 in Brindisi sitting out strong weather
Nights we paid to anchor - 3   2 in National Parks and we only paid once in Croatia, possibly a cruiser record!
Different Anchorages visisted - 85
Strongest winds - 42 knots tied up in Greece, 30 knots at sea across the sole of Italy
Fastest speed - 9.9 knots flying out of the Bospherous leaving Turkey but current assisted. 9.2 knots across the instep of Italy, no current just plenty of wind!
Sleepless nights - 2 Both with unforecast storm cells turning our cosy anchorages into lee shores. One in Greece and one in Croatia, both times we lifted anchor and got out!
Rainy days - Not too many until September then things started to get a little soggy
How much did it cost? - Done all the numbers and it averaged out at 320€ per week (this season was 24 weeks). That includes stocking up the food supplies in Turkey before we left there, and starting/finishing with full diesel tanks. Our biggest expense was eating/drinking onboard 1,700€, diesel was 1,354€, next came eating/drinking ashore 1,200€, sightseeing/local transport 905€, Marinas and Corinth Transit 914€, repairs/maintenance/spares 750€, cruising permits for Montenegro and Croatia 460€, phone/internet 300€, the rest is made up of odds and ends - souvenirs, clothing, laundry etc

AND THAT WAS THE SUMMER OF 2009

The End of Greece ..... July 2009

11-15 July 2009
lasting memories of Greece - ***tucked up in tiny fishing harbours***the colours of the med***the one and only beautiful Santorini ***

We said our farewells to the Greek mainland and left Preveza heading back out into the Ioanian Islands with a good forecast of light northerlies. All was going reasonably well, sailing in average winds but again in quite lumpy seas. As we reached the islands of Antipaxos and Paxos (Andipaxoi and Paxoi) conditions quickly deteriorated with strong winds and a wicked sea coming through the gap between them, and of course the wind veered around to right on the nose, yet again. We double reefed the main, rolled in the headsail and made very slow progress motoring towards our destination of Paxos for the night. We didn't rate our chances of going stern to in the inner anchorage as by now we were getting gusts of 35knots between lulls of 10knots, these islands do some very strange things to the weather around here. We headed for the southern anchorage off Gaios and after 4 attempts finally managed to get our anchor set through the thick weed although closer to shore than we normally prefer. We had a horrible night with regular wind gusts and a beam on roll , pay back time for all those free marinas we have been enjoying!

Although Paxos is described as being one of the best in the Ioanian we decided to move on just after dawn the next morning. We had a great sail across to the tip of Corfu then tacked our way up the island in flat water and anchored under the fort at Corfu town. We had a great spot, tucked behind the headland and out of the wash from many passing ferries but a tender from the small marina nearby came out and asked us to move, we were impeding on the megayacht maneuvering area, mmmm. So move we did but then couldn't get the anchor to set through the weed, eventually we got attached again but our new spot was much more rolly when the ferries passed, and there are several ferries. A local tour boat tore by one afternoon so close and with such a wake our decks went under water, a first at anchor! I was sick for a couple of days with a bug but eventually we got to wander ashore around Corfu Old Town, through the imposing forts, past the cricket green and through the lush palace grounds. The Duke of Edinburgh, Queen Elizabeth's husband was born in Corfu. Its a lovely old town, no lager louts to be seen even though Corfu is still one of the UK's busiest cheap package holiday destinations. It has a little touch of Italy, England and Greece all mixed together and the outcome makes for a very pleasant spot.

The Ioanian Islands for us had been a disappointment, very busy with the charter fleets, but of course we are in the high season. Many of the anchorages were poorly protected from the prevailing winds and some of the holding was the worst we have had, anywhere. The changeable sea state was similar to the Aegean, things just didn't go so well. Given a less busy time of the year it is quite possibly outstanding, with lighter winds to allow tucking into some of the smaller bays. The islands are mainly green, the architecture appealing, it just didn't work out well for us. We had a 2 day weather window before some stronger winds from the north were due so we said our final farewells to Greece and headed on an overnight passage up the Albanian Coast to Montenegro.

Cruising Info for Paxos and Corfu in the Ioanian Sea:
Anchorages -
Gaios, Paxos 39 11.74N 20 11.52E settled in 15m poor holding and rolly. Les rolly further northeast but unable to get anchor to set
Corfu Town, Corfu 39 37.01N 19 55.66E 10m try and find a sandy spot. Outside the marina there are a couple of tiny red buoys, try and stay outside this area. Other yachts anchored where we had been moved from and stayed.
Internet - Very poor signal from boat, a couple of wifi hotspot cafes just ashore behind marina.
Money and Provisions - Everything ashore in the myriad of alleyways.

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Heading for the Greek Mountains ..... July 2009

06 -11 July 2009

***Vicos Gorge, famous in the 1997 Guinness Book of Records for being the Worlds Deepest Canyon. 2950ft deep and 3600f wide between its 2 rims***The beautiful stone bridges of Zagori***One of the surviving monasteries at Meteroa***Another monastery, famous as the backdrop in the James Bond film "For your Eyes Only"

After rather a pleasant short sail up from our jinxed stop in Levkas Town we entered the channel into Preveza. The large free town quay had plenty of room but the boats attached seemed to be jolting around a little in the sea breeze although it was very sheltered. We had a look in the unfinished marina and found just the spot for us, easy to side tie up at the end of one of the quays. We couldn't quite ascertain if it was free or not, or if we could actually tie up there but no one said we couldn't so if in doubt, stay! And we did, for 5 nights.

Preveza is a pleasant spot, mainly visited by Greek tourists, it has a long waterfront quay bustling with visiting yachts and lined with some very upmarket cafes and backed inland with a pedestrian mall.. It's quiet by day but buzzes from early evening till the wee small hours.

We wanted to visit the monasteries of Meteroa, which claims to be Greeces most visited tourist attraction. After the crowds at Santorini it was likely to be very busy! We hired a car with Sheryl and David on Samsara and headed for the hills.

We had also read in our trusty Lonely Planet about the area of Zagori, an area consisting of 46 traditional stone villages lying just south of the Albanian boarder. Although this was a detour north it was certainly worth it. The region is highly wooded covered in pines and firs, it boasts bears and jackals (all taking a siesta while we visited). The Vikos Gorge carves through and the crystal clear rivers are criss-crossed with an network of ancient arched stone bridges. It is a truly beautiful, remote spot, and one that warrants a longer visit in spring or autumn to enjoy the many walking trails leading from village to village along mountain paths and over the bridges.

After a lunch of local chicken pie, which was missing the chicken, we headed back south towards Ioannina, but didn't quite translate the Greek signs in time and missed the entry to the newly opened motorway that heads east, this ultimately will connect Mediterranean Greece with Istanbul in Turkey, an enormous engineering project, and guess what ...... billions of euro funded by the good ole EU. We got to enjoy the very windy but scenic mountain road instead for a few miles until we found the next on ramp. We turned off at Metsovo, partly because there were no signs indicating the next exit and exits were about 30 kilometres apart, and partly because it sounded like a worthwhile place to stop. It was lovely, set atop the highest pass in Greece, surrounded by towering peaks it is a summer hiking destination and a winter ski resort. Unsure of just how we were to get to our evening destination of Meteroa (yes we did have a map - two actually but they didn't show the new road!) we asked a coach driver who told us to wait two minutes and follow him, so we did. Back on the winding road to the motorway then off at the next exit, we wound down through the mountains onto the plains watching the huge boulder like landscape of Meteroa drawing us closer.

We arrived just in time for the soft late afternoon sun and after finding a bed for the night got straight back out and drove up to the monasterys to capture them in the perfect light with hardly a tourist in sight, magic.

We stayed in the smaller village of Kastraki, tucked in under these imposing boulders. We had wondeful views from our rooms at the ???(the memory has gone at last) for 50Euro including breakfast and had a very good meal out at the Taverna Paradisos. Next morning it was time to join all those tourists, but it wasn't too crazy. We went first to the Moni Megalou Meterorou (The Grand Monastery) built in the 14th century on the highest rock in the valley. It is in excellent repair and houses a couple of museums and shows how life would have been in those early times for the monks. We spent a couple of hours wandering through then moved onto Moni Agiou Stefanou. Immediately you notice the 'womens touches' as this is home to an order of nuns instead of the monks. It is small and compact after the Grand Monastery but worth the visit. Visiting two was ample, the aura of the place is more the settings with the monasteries perched high on the boulder tops, some almost inaccesible more than the monasteries themselves.

We travelled the motorway back, across viaducts and through 19 tunnels (we had a sweepstake with 17, 18, 20 and 21 as our picks!!!), right through to Dodona and visited the ancient 4th century BC ampitheatre and ruins there, we have seen some spectacular examples but this wasn't quite up there.

We stopped for a supermarket run on the way into Preveza, never missing an opportunity of having transport and filled the car to the brim. We even had another top up the next morning, filling the lockers with goodies before we took the car back. On our last night in Preveza we strolled the promenade along with hundreds of others, then were lucky enough to get a couple of vacant seats at a waterfront concert featuring an 'International Choral Festival', we sat under the stars listening to choirs from Bulgaria, Poland, Romania, Slovenia to name just a few. What a magic life we sometimes lead.

Cruising Info for Preveza:
Anchorage - Preveza unfinished marina ... 38 57.61N 20 45.40E 2.9m side tied. Water on dock. We didn't get charged but some docks are individually 'managed' so may be small charge. Some are used by charter companies. Its all very hit and miss. The big long town quay is free, either side or stern tie, quietest and less slop as far towards marina as you can get. Water on town quay from taps in middle of lawn
Internet - Locked signals available from various cafes. Go have a drink, people watch and take your laptop.
Money and Provisions - Plenty ATMs. Supermarkets, bakery etc one block back from quay
Formalities - Again didn'y do any or see anyone. Advised not to visit port police as not too friendly!
Sightseeing - 2 car hire companies by marina were 60Euro per day for small car. Got a brand new VW Polo from Kapa Rentals via Jenny at Karyatis Travel ph 0030 2682100232. She was very helpful, speaks good English, office right down the far (south) end of quay about 2 shops back on a side street but sandwich board on quay. Cost 44Euro for fuel.
Monastries are 3Euro each entrance fee, they close on different days so always some open.
On the road into the 'Bridges of Zagora County' there is an excellent tourist information.
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The Islands of the Ioanian Sea ..... July 2009

02 - 06 July 2009
After seeing all there was to see we had no more excuses to stay and reluctantly untied from our free marina berth at Mesolongi. We motored back out of the channel into the Gulf of Patras and headed west once again, it was time to move on to the Ioanian Sea. Light westerlies once again, so just 8 tacks to clear the headland at the end of the Gulf before we could bear away a little and head for the popular island of Ithaca. Before we cleared the headland the winds picked up to over 20 knots but while we were thinking of putting a reef in the main they dropped, totally, leaving us with a messy slop which we started to motor though. After about an hour we had about 15 knots so managed to sail through the sloppy seas, but the wind and seas kept building, with the wind back on the nose and up to 30 knots. Engine back on and we motor-sailed for the final 3 hours making slow time in very uncomfortable conditions as the twilight approached. Welcome to the Ioanian.

Vathy harbour on Ithaca had come highly recommended by several fellow cruisers and sounded lovely in the Greek Waters Pilot but as we looked again at the charts and guide book we didn't think it was going to be great coverage but it was our only option late in the day. It's a big long bay, within a larger indentation, but with a strong nor'wester the wind was whipping through, and although on a lee shore it shallowed slowly and the water was reasonably flat, it was ok as home for the night.

The following morning brought clear skies again but around 20 knots plus was still gusting through. We didn't like to leave Balvenie on a lee shore to go off exploring, although the venetian architecture ashore with the surrounding green hills looked very appealing. We decided instead to head off about 20 miles northeast, and once we cleared Ithaca we had a well earned beam reach in flat seas across to the bottom tip of Meganisi. The wind then dropped, so along with about 30 charter yachts we motored up the east coast of the island. Minutes after we turned west at the top were met with 20 knots on the nose, this provided much entertainment as some novice sailors on the charter boats were struggling with the sudden change in conditions.

We headed into the sheltered anchorage of Abelike Bay, we had at last hit the "busy anchorages", there were boats just everywhere, and a new addition arrived every couple of minutes. So with little time to ponder we claimed our spot. This was our first med mooring anchorage of the season, so while Skipper runs out the chain and tries to reverse in a straightish line simultaneously, (never easy with a good breeze blowing, a skeg rudder and no bow thruster), I take a quick dip and dive overboard with the floating mooring line attached to the boat at one end and swim ashore in search of a hardy tree or stable rock to tie to. Of course, this all needs to be effected in a very short space of time or Balvenie simply decides she doesn't want to be where we say and bounces back out on her anchor chain before I can get the line attached. This really is the most difficult way of anchoring with only 2 people on board, but when there are 27 boats tied up for the night in an anchorage that may comfortably fit 4 if swinging, then it is a necessary evil. The afternoons entertainment is also provided, watching everyone having there own way of doing this. Concern is always raised with the odd boat that likes to tie up to shore first and then just drop the anchor over the bow, not quite the way to do it!!!! We were also provided with much entertainment from some of the 'nudist' boats in the anchorage, they didn't seem to want anyone anchoring next to them (but it certainly didn't seem that they wanted the privacy!!) so would stand up on the bow, arms and other body parts waving in all directions if a boat came close. It is very hard to take anyone seriously when they are in the nuddie!!!

We decided to move on the next morning, it was the weekend and we had heard that the Yacht Club in Vlikho Bay on Levkas Island was showing the rugby test and the Wimbledon Mens Final, skipper was overdue for an injection of sport!!!! Off we set and motored the short distance in glassy seas. Enroute we circumnavigated the small lush island of Skorpios, which has been privately owned by the Onassis family for many years. Although they own the island you are allowed to anchor in the bays and step ashore up to the high water mark, as dozens of the charter boats were doing. I suspect the family and visitors have a very large swimming pool at their summer house and never come down to the waters edge!

Onto Levkas and past the town of Nidri and Tranquil Bay. It quite possibly was Tranquil when named some years ago but now bumper to bumper with boats and jet skis whizzing around it is anything but Tranquil. We spotted fellow circumnavigators Samsara, with David and Sheryl from Melbourne onboard and rafted up next to them for a catch up and lunch. Always great to see familiar faces along the way. Then we headed down into Vlikho Bay, and although there were many boats it is a huge sheltered anchorage with room for all. Next day we had more friends arrive, Richard and Pam on Aliesha , a British boat we have known since Darwin. They are nearing the end of their circumnavigation and were waiting to head for Sicily. We had a great afternoon at the Yacht Club watching the epic mens final at Wimbledon and finished off the day with an excellent Roast Beef and Yorkshire pudding, nice to have 'normal' food out for a change!

Time was moving on, and so did we. We planned to motor up the bay and channel north to Levkas Town, stay for the night on the town quay and await the opening of the floating bridge which connects Levkas Island to Mainland Greece at 10.00am the following morning. There was a reasonably sized space on the quay next to Samsara but the wind had picked up, blowing us sideways. After 2 failed attempts at dropping anchor and trying to reverse in we admitted defeat and gave up, but then snared someones anchor chain while lifting ours, lost our boat hook overboard while freeing it and nearly ran aground while reversing out.! We know when we are beaten! We decided our best option was to go through on the 2pm bridge opening and head the 10 miles north to Preveza. Standing station with around 15 charter boats for the bridge opening in a tiny canal was more than enough excitement for me for one day, but then once out the other side through a myriad of tiny red buoys arranged in no sensible manner at all through 3 metre waters nearly finished me off completely. Still, we got through into deeper water, rolled just the headsail out and actually had rather a nice sail north, things were looking up. Preveza here we come

Cruising Info for Ithaca, Meganisi & Levkas:

Anchorages - Vathy Bay, Ithaca ... 38 22.03N 20 43.08E 4.0m held well in strong winds. Lee shore in prevailing winds, flat water but annoying chop
Abelike Bay, Meganisi ... 38 40.29N 20 47.34E settled in 4.4m dropped anchor in around 12m, stern tied to rock and tree. Tucked up away from sea breeze
Vlikho Bay, Levkas ... 38 41.09N 20 42.03E 6.1m mud bottom held well. Very big shallow bay but well sheltered, may get chop in strong winds. Boats are wintered afloat here at anchor.

Internet - Didn't manage a signal onboard from any of these anchorages. Yacht Club in Vlikho has dial-up, very slow and 2Euro half hour

Money/Provisions - Didn't go ashore in Vathy. Nothing in Abelike but can walk about 20minutes to town. Small mini market in Vlikho best to go to Nidri. The Yacht Club in Vlikho has a wealth of information about the area, an excellent library for book swapping at no charge, washer and dryer 3Euro each per load, and satellite tv with all the sport on!

Formalities - Didn't do anywhere

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Mesolongi, Ancient Olympia and Diakofto.....June/July 2009

27 June - 02 July 2009
***underneath an overhang and into another tunnel on the Diakofto rack and pinion railway***ready on the starters blocks for the mixed 100 metre finals at Olympia Stadium***Mark doing his victory lap with the ancient arched entry way in the background***a few of the many reconstructed statues in the Olympia Musuem***
Time to move westwards again. We left the little island of Trizonia and motor-sailed until we cleared the Rio-Andirio suspension bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world. Then it was time to practice our tacks again, just 10 today. Finally we headed up the narrow channel into Mesolongi (Messolongion) and tied up yet again in another unfinished free marina. Mesolongi is low lying and hasn't got too much going for it. The 'marina' is quite a distance to town, but nearby there is an interesting array of war planes, canons and other equipment, just sitting in a fenced off area by the port. Adjacent to this are lying several huge wind turbine parts, still shrink wrapped awaiting installation, but looking like they had been there for quite some time, undoubtedly more EU money and worth millions! We had intended to just stay the night here, but we met up with a couple of other cruising boats, Rien and Ineke on Zeezwaluw from Holland and Kit and Belinda on Quilcene from England. Kit and Belinda had just returned from an overnight excursion to Diakofto to ride the rack and pinion railway there, something we had looked at doing but thought it currently wasn't running, so with offers from both of them to keep an eye on Balvenie we planned our next mini-break.

We decided if we were to go across to the Peloponnese Peninsular to do the train journey into the mountains we may as well go a little further and visit Ancient Olympia. We enquired about hiring a car but there are no hire companies in Mesolongi so armed with bus and train timetables we set out, first by bus to Patras then by train eastwards to Diakofto. It's a small seaside town sandwiched between the Gulf of Patras and the Northern Peloponnese mountains. Not much happens here, the sleepy town centres around the train station, and a few tourists pass through to travel to Kalavryta, through the Vouraikos Gorge up into the mountain ranges and ski resorts in season. We stayed the night at the pleasant Hotel Lemonies (€50 incl breakie) and had our best meal out yet in Greece at Costas (both Lonely Planet recommendations). Next morning we were off on our train journey into the mountains. The journey takes about an hour each way and climbs over 700m in 23km. The railway was build in the late 1800's by the Italians and clings to the side of the gorge, snaking up the river side and following it up into the well wooded mountains.

Back down in Diakofto by 11.15am, we started our marathon of getting to Olympia. There seems to have been no consideration given to connections onward when the once a day timetable for the mountain journey was decided. So after a very long coffee, then a dreadful cheap lunch we bordered the intercity train westwards at 1.37pm via Patras to Pygrus. We arrived after the last train to Olympia had departed which runs at 3pm!, so did plenty more waiting and caught the 6pm bus to Olympia village, finally arriving around 7pm. Olympia is a lovely little place, fully set up for the tourists but certainly not overrun at all. We checked into the clean and comfortable Pension Posidon (€50 incl breakie), then rewarded ourselves by venturing out for a well earned drink and meal, followed by a stroll around town.

Next morning we were up and out early for the 8am opening. First we visited the Archaeological Museum. It has an excellent display of votive offerings and other artifacts, and an exceptional amount of statues, all very well displayed, recorded and described. Then we moved on to the ruins of Olympia, home of the first Olympic Games held in 776BC. It is so hard to imagine that nearly 2800 years ago they were staging athletic games for leisure and entertainment. We wandered through the ruins, unfortunately they are rather ruined, due to the age, many earthquakes and Theodosius II who decreed in 426AD that the temples be destroyed as they held 'pagan festivals' there. You do still get an excellent overview of everything however and the running track and surrounding area is a very special place, complete with entry archway, rock starting blocks and judges seating. Mark did a quick lap of honour, and we sat in the peaceful surroundings and tried to imagine how it must have been. After the ruins we had time for a look through the History of the Olympic Games in Antiquity Museum, also very good then headed for the train station.

By catching the 12noon train to Pygrus we had time for a tasty €1.50 gyro (pita wrap with pork, tomatoes, onions and fries in it), while we watched the 'mobile chicken truck' selling his live wares, all jammed inside in cages, and given a periodic whack on their becks if they stuck them through the wire too far. not quite how they do it at home!!! We caught the intercity train to Patras, then had only an hours wait for the bus to Mesolongi. All was going to plan until we got stuck in a traffic jam due to road works for over an hour, something we are certainly no longer used to, but made it back to Balvenie by 6pm, worn out after two big, but very enjoyable days.

Cruising Info for Mesolongi:
Anchorages - Mesolongi Unfinished Marina (www.messolonghimarina.com info@messolonghimarina.com) ... 38 21.61N 21 25.04E 7.4m side tied No charge currently but works underway to finish marina (working slowly!!)
Internet - Patchy unlocked signal at dock
Money - ATM machines in town, about 20 minute walk
Provisions - All shops in town, nothing at the marina. Water hose on dock, did not see a fuel truck
Formalities - Didn't see/do any
Sightseeing - This wasn't an ideal way of doing our tour but this is what we did -
1/2 hour walk to bus station outside Exodus Gate
Mesolongi - Patras Bus 1430/1530 €5.10 p.p
Patras - Diakofto Train 1707/1807 €1.80 p.p (local train - no air con and a couple of extra stops)
Diakofto - Kalavrita - Diakofto Rack and Pinion Train 0854/1150 €6.80 p.p return
Diakofto - Pygrus Train 1337/1604 €8.10 p.p (intercity train - air con)
Pygrus - Olympia Bus 1800/1845 €1.90 p.p (bus station about 7 minutes walk from train station)
Olympia - Pygrus Train 1205/1235 €0.70c p.p
Pygrus - Patras Train 1257/1452 €5.40 p.p (bus station about 10 minutes walk from train station)
Patras - Mesolongi Bus 1530/1615 €5.10 p.p
If we had caught a later train or bus from Olympia we would have had a couple of hours in Patras and got back about 8pm.

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Westwards thru the Corinth Canal ..... June 2009

19 - 23 June 2009
***Transiting the Corinth Canal, with the steep walls and a couple of bridges high above***The cute harbour of Galaxidi***The gymnasium area at ancient Delphi***Higher up at Delphi, overlooking the amphitheatre, Temple of Apollo and the gymnasium in the distance with the valley full of olive trees as the background***

After our 4 nights in Aegina is was time to move on again and head further west. We pulled out of the harbour without drama, not always a sure thing when you stern tie to the town wall, as anchor chains often get laid over each other, and can make for a very messy tangle often when leaving.
We sailed, then motor sailed as we lost the breeze and headed to the end of the Saronic Gulf, and the entrance to the Corinth Canal, till there was only land ahead. We anchored for the night, still not having spotted the gap for the canal - we hoped it was still there as it's a long way around! The canal is not busy at all, very few large ships can fit through it and it seems to serve mainly yachts, smaller coastal traders and a couple of tour boats that offer the 'canal experience'. Next morning with a light westerly breeze we headed for the breakwater, tied alongside the empty dock, Skipper went ashore with boat papers and credit card and the paperwork was completed in under 5 minutes. Maybe they could bring the Egyptians that run the Suez Canal up here and show them a thing or two on how things can be done efficiently! Then we just had to wait for them to lower the road into the canal, and off we went. The canal is 3.2 miles long, 25m wide and the limestone walls rise to 79m. At €177 for our transit it is quite an expensive half hours entertainment and we popped out in the Gulf of Corinth in no time at all.

With a building nor'wester and gathering thunder clouds we had full days sails to our destination of Galaxidi . We spent much time dodging lightening strikes and squalls, and realized it was the first time we had sailed in the rain since our passage from the Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal to Sri Lanka in January 2008!! We weren't surprised by the rain, after all we had just paid for water to hose the boat down in Aegina, oh well.

Galaxidi is a delightful spot, visited mostly by cruising yachts as its out of the way for the charter fleets and a little off the beaten track for holiday makers. There is a small town basin to stern tie or if plenty of room side tie to, cafes and bars along the quay but its very peaceful and surrounded by a young pine forest. We spent 3 nights here, sitting out stormy weather, and spent one day visiting the ancient ruins of Delphi.

We caught the bus around the large bay to nearby Itea where we changed onto another bus and started the climb up the valley through acres and acres of olive groves, into the mountains to Delphi. This is where Zeus declared the centre of the world to be and the Sanctuary of Apollo was built here. This is one of the most important ancient sites in Greece, and although we have seen better preserved ruins the site is absolutely stunning, perched high on the mountain slopes with a stunning vista down to the Gulf of Corinth. There are still the remains of the gymnasium and running tracks, this was more a place of relaxation and leisure rather than a bustling city. It has done well to survive the earthquakes that shake this area regularly. The adjoining museum is excellent and houses treasures unearthed in the 1930's under the 'sacred way', artefacts are well displayed and documented.

The westerly winds eased a little so time to keep going but sad to leave, Galaxidi is a favorite. We spent the afternoon covering the 18 miles to our next destination of Trizonia, we had 20 knots, of course on the nose, but with relatively flat seas and after 11 tacks dropped sail outside this small island, just 1 mile off the mainland. There is another of Greeces unfinished marinas here, they receive money from the EU for various projects, start the building then when the EU money runs out the Greek Government is supposed to finish the project off, but it seems that alot of the time they don't. So there are a few of these little marinas around, with all the docks, cleats, dock lighting etc, but no power, water or staff and generally in a state of disrepair, and they are free and most welcomed by us cruisers. Yesterday we got a ride to the mainland and onto Nafpaktos to look around this bustling little town and tiny ancient harbour then caught the bus and ferry back. We have side tied to the end of a dock and here we will remain until the unseasonal thunder storms abate and the strong winds from the west ease, so we can make our way out into the Ioanian Sea.

Cruising Info for Eastern Corinth Canal, Galaxidi, Trizonia and Itea:
Anchorages -
Corinth Canal Eastern Side .. 37 55.25N 23 00.83E 6.5m and and weed held ok
Galaxidi .. 38 22.62N 22 23.26E 3.8m Stern tied to harbour wall, some holding not too good as continual dredging but we held well. Most likely very helpful Angelos will be there to direct and assist you. No charge for tying up, but pay extra for power and water
Itea .. We didn't stay here but it is a little closer to Delphi if you are wanting to go to the ruins. The marina is right by the bus stop. It has now been completed and we believe they charge €8 per night to dock, unsure of power and water. Although calm water inside it is much more exposed than Galaxidi to all but a northerly wind. Bigger town with all the facilities
Trizonia .. 38 22.15N 22 04.57E 2.5m side tied. Find wherever you can. No charge for tying up but no facilities and plenty of big holes in the dock to break an ankle on!!!!
Internet - Corinth .. nothing, Galaxidi .. OK Cafe has good signal and excellent coffee, have a coffee and get the code. Trizonia .. Posideon Cafe good signal in marina, charge is €2 1hour, €5 1 day or €10 3 days and skype worked well. Possibly free while having something at the cafe but need to pay if using onboard.
Money - Galaxidi ATM machines, nothing at others
Provisions - small stores at Galaxidi, tiny minimarket at Trizonia.
Fuel mini tanker on the dock at Galaxidi, water and power available 5Euro for each I believe
Formalities - Tried to check in Galaxidi 3 times, no one home. Nothing others
Sightseeing -
Galaxidi .. Buses to Itea from square slightly up the hill at 10am then onto Delphi 1045, return 1545 to Itea and about 20minute wait. €3.20 through tickets per person each way. Entry to Delphi €6 site only or €9 site and museum See www.galaxidigreece.com for more on Galaxidi
Trizonia .. Bus back from Nafpaktos at 11am connected with 12noon ferry which waited for it. Bus was €2.70 each ferry €1. Got ride to Nafpaktos kindly from Spiros one of the restaurant owners.

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The Saronic Gulf Islands and Athens..... June 2009

12 - 19 June 2009
*** Mark relaxing with a complimentary glass of ouzo on the harbour front in Poros***The "changing of the guard" in Athens***Look what they found when they tried to dig an air shaft for the Athens metro***Our neighbours on the wall in Aegina - a wooden replica enacting a voyage from Izmir in Turkey to Marseilles in Southern France - tied up awaiting repairs after being beaten up in the Aegean***

As we approached the eastern entrance to the island of Poros after a fast beam reach sail across the Western Aegean from Sifnos, a procession of large and extremely large launches crossed our path, it was late Friday afternoon and it appeared that everyone in Athens with a launch was on their way down to the swanky island of Hydra for the night. It was non stop, about 3 minutes apart and the wash from these beasts travelling at considerable speed was very messy.

We dropped sails and motored the last couple of miles and then negotiated the very narrow channel, which has you almost touching the boats tied stern to the wall. We successfully completed that little challenge and popped out into the sheltered and enclosed harbour. Along with several others we anchored off, the town wall overflowing with more enormous launches, a phenomenal display of wealth!!!

Poros is just half a mile off the northern coast of the Peloponesse Peninsular, its waterfront lined with cafes, bars and souvenir shops, but it has a laid back feel to it, despite all the glitz tied up to the town quay. Come late Sunday night all the launches had gone, the weekend holidaymakers from Athens had left on the regular ferries and it reverted back to a quiet island community. You can catch the little passenger ferry or dinghy across to Galatas on the Peloponesse for a change of scenery but there wasn't much there, its also a good spot to hire a car to explore the peninsular, but we didn't do this.

After 3 nights the winds had dropped enough for us to make a dash due north to the island of Aegina. We motored up in sloppy seas, and winds on the nose, of course. Our aim was to get in early as we heard the harbour wall got very busy, we did find a spot on the southern wall but abandoned it when out depth gauge showed 2 metres and we were still 20 metres off! We went out and anchored for the night but the wash and wakes from the countless ferries and hydrofoils in the outer harbour made this reasonably uncomfortable. Aegina is not a densely populated island, around 15,000 inhabitants, but the frequency of the ferries to and from Athens astounded us. Next morning we got a spot on the northern wall, backing onto the road and cafes, somewhat noisy but certainly in the middle of all the comings and goings and very little ferry wash.
Aegina is a lively spot, the harbour side again brimming with wall to wall cafes. Greece certainly is a cafe society, from early morning coffees to midnight glasses of ouzo and meals served non stop throughout the day, it emits that lazy carefree atmosphere that if it doesn't get done today, there is always tomorrow. Maybe that is why we feel so much at home here!!

Instead of sailing Balvenie to Athens where marina berths are hard to find and very expensive we decided to take the ferry for the day, along with our carefully packaged broken wind instrument in the hope of getting it repaired or replaced at the local agent there. By 11am we had a fix, just €440 for a new 'brain' about the size of my little finger, oh well there goes another NZ$1,000 boat unit, but if it works I guess it's worth it. So the rest of the day was spent 'doing Athens' (with fiercely protected wind instrument). As we had both been before we just did a mini refresher and walked the suggested Lonely Planet 4 hour walking tour in 38 degrees heat and searing sunshine, taking in the main sights, the changing of the guard, and as much shade as we could find!!

The next morning it was time for skipper to head for the skies again and refit the wind instrument to the top of the mast. All was going well until just past the 2nd spreader when it caught on something and came nosediving down in freefall, crashing to the deck, oh my god!!!! After a quick inspection I thought it was all ok, so repackaged it very securely, attached it to another halyard and sent it up to Mark, patiently dangling aloft, not believing it could have survived such a fall. I realised quite quickly when he received it that things were not at all well, 'where is the other end?' he shouts. Good question, where is the other end????? Oh dear, that's it dangling precariously over the side of the rail. Quickly retrieved before going overboard and
moved to a much more secure spot we independently surveyed our snapped off ends, mmmmm time for skipper to come back down I think. Now exopy glue has many uses, but gluing together a wind instrument that has a tiny rotating bearing in it, to the other end that has the circuit board 'brain' in it capable of reading the signal from this rotating bearing may not be one of them, but really, just what did we have to lose? So exopy glued it was, and then a little sleeve added for extra support, followed by hours of uncertainty while we waited for it to cure. Early evening we couldn't stand the suspense any longer so up he went again and reattached it in place. The moment of truth when I came below and turned on the instrument panel..............it's all working, wind speed and direction, wow, who'd have believed it. Plenty extra rations for the crew tonight!!!!

We enjoyed Aegina, We stayed 4 nights, we didn't get to the ruins which are supposed to be very good, but in Europe there will always be more ruins, but there was a window for getting on westwards. Next stop the Cornith Canal.

Cruising Info for Poros and Aegina:
Anchorages -
Navy Bay, Poros ... 37 30.27N 23 27.02E 16m held well. Good shelter
Aegina Anchorage ... 37 44.46N 23 25.64E 4.6m sand and weed, took 2 attempts but then held well. Totally exposed to west, alot of wash from large ferries that dock on outside harbour wall
Aegina Town Wall ... 37 44.76N 23 25.69E showing 2m but we were still afloat. Cost €20.66 for 3 nights, 1st night costs most. Water and power available, water was €10 for 150-1000 litres.
Internet - Nothing in Poros. Free Port wifi in Aegina but I couldn't get it to work
Money - ATM's in both
Provisions - Everything you need within walking distance. Diesel mini tanker to dock €1.06 per litre
Formalities - didn't do in either

Sightseeing - Ferry Aegina-Athens €9.50 metro downtown €1 per person each way Posted by Picasa