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| Lovely houses in Triora |
After snorkelling the underwater Statue of Christ at San Fruituoso we let the mooring line go, motored out of the bay then set sail across the Gulf of Genoa to Final Ligure. We had a good sail, all the time mindful that if we had much of a wind shift our chosen anchorage outside the marina in Final Ligure would not be great. There are very few protected anchorages along this stretch of coastline but the winds were forecast to die away so we hoped for the best. We anchored just beside the marina breakwater in shallow water by 6.30pm, had dinner then by 8.30pm the wind had moved to the south leaving us no protection, and although only 10knots it had quite a chop and we don’t like being on a leeshore. So just on dark we lifted anchor and made our way slowly into the marina, aware that it was quite shallow.
Our first choice of stern tying to a free spot didn’t work, we ran aground backing in. 2nd choice was side tying to a vacant spot next to some fishing boats, again we ran out of water. 3rd choice (running out of choices here) was to turn the boat and try and tie to the vacant fuel dock for the night hoping it would be deep enough. Skipper performed about a 20 point turn and got us round and somehow manoeuvred us side ways close enough for me to jump off and attach us, we were tied up, still floating - just and although not a perfect spot we felt much safer. After a quick walk around the marina to stretch our legs we managed a reasonable sleep. By 7.15am we let the lines go and motored out, running aground only once more before we were freed from Final Ligure’s clutches. It’s a good thing the bottom was soft gooey mud! We raised sails but only managed a couple of hours sailing before the wind died away, we motored the remainder of the 37 miles to our next stop at San Remo arriving at 2.30pm.
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| At San Remo's free dock |
San Remo has a large harbour behind an enormous breakwater, there is an expensive marina at one end, some small docks for the local boats in the middle, then on the inside of the breakwater is a very long quay, full in parts with fishing boats, but there is one area designated for visiting boats and it’s free. We had heard of some boats getting one night free, others got 3 nights, well we had 6 very enjoyable nights tied up and no one came looking for payment.
It was a great town, again mainly only Italian speakers, even though were we now only 15 miles from the French boarder it didn’t seem to attach many foreign tourists. It was well set out, a 2 lane cycle path ran along the waterfront, the main shopping area was a pedestrian mall, there were a couple of other cute shopping lanes then running up the hill was the old town. The old town was mainly residential and had several town walls and gates, each added as the town had expanded, there were dark tunnel ways linking the high buildings and squares. We visited early evening, with fading light it all seemed a little dank, dark and seedy, I’m sure in brilliant sunshine it would have looked and felt quite different. The architecture and layout was interesting and again different to others we have seen, it was certainly worth the visit.
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| Who's laughing at who here? |
On another day, in company with our German neighbours Kati and Gerd we caught the bus up the Silver Valley inland, passing countless hilltop villages to our destination of Triora, 33km north of San Remo. This medieval hilltop village was the spot in the 16th century for trials and executions of all the local witches and even has a Witchcraft museum displaying the history and countless witches’ hats for sale. It has a stunning vista over the surrounding heavily wooded countryside and neighbouring villages, plenty of little lanes and alleyways to explore, and despite the worst coffee we have possibly ever had was a great days excursion.
We stayed in San Remo longer than we had planned, there were strong winds blowing some distance offshore bringing a heavy swell onto the coast. Each morning we would climb the stairs to the top of the breakwater, look at the surf rolling in and wait another day, tucked away safely behind the huge breakwater seemed the best place to be! As this was to be our last stop in Italy we were in no hurry to leave. Late one afternoon while helping a new joiner tie to the dock, Mark removed his sunglasses so they wouldn’t fall overboard but forgot to pick them up again. Of course they had gone when he realised so it was off to the Optician for a new set of prescription, polarized sunglasses, they would take a week to arrive so we would be returning to Italy by train to collect them. Our stay tied up to the free dock was not so cheap after all.
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| Hill top villages in the Silver valley |
I loved this place, it had such a nice feel to it, a normal working town but well planned and set out, clean, tidy and orderly and a vibrant feel to it, and a reat spot on the riviera.
Eventually the seas calmed down and we left Italy on August 30, three months after we had arrived. We had had a wonderful time and were sad to be leaving, but Monaco was to be our next stop, and that was very exciting!
Cruising info for Final Ligure and San Remo, Italy:-
Anchorages –
Final Ligure 44 10.591N 08 22.349E 3.9m sand/mud. Would be fine with no wind or west round to north east. The fuel dock where we ended up was just inside the entrance on the right hand side, we tried stern tying on the left (opp fuel dock) as indicted in Italian Waters Pilot but nudged bottom still about 6m off dock. We draw 2.4m. We didn't pay anything - arrived after dark and left at dawn.
San Remo 43 48.886N 07 46.975E 4.7m Head towards the yellow fuel dock sign on the breakwater (there are two fuel docks, other one over by town) You can see a little port-a-cabin building also, these are excellent showers and toilets, closed overnight but open all day, new and cleaned daily. There were only enough mooring lines for 4 boats to stern tie, we were the closest to the fuel dock, had 2 boats side tied between us and fuel dock. One boat attached his own mooring line to the chain to stern tie, other boats side tied inbetween and some rafted to them. Max number of boats we had in was 9 (could have fitted more), no one was turned away. Could drop anchor and stern tie but may faul it on the mooring chains.
Communications - All phone signals ok and dongle working well. A couple of WIND shops ashore that spoke excellent English to get sorted if this is your first stop in Italy.
Ashore - There is absolutely everything within easy walking distance - walk around the breakwater to the fort and the junction with the road running along waterfront. Turn right to Casino supermarket, when water runs out it is right in front of you sort of attached to a restaurant. Or turn left at fort, then 1st right, 1st left at Chinese Restaurant and there is a Dico supermarket just along on right - set slightly back behind wire netting fence. Excellent covered market, (says Pesca Mercado or something on outside of huge building). Keep going up past Chinese restaurant up street, road vears to right a little and inclines and on left is big market. Think it was open daily, it is exceptional. ATM's everywhere. Waterfront dining 2 pizza or pasta, 1/2 litre wine, complimentary Lemoncello 30Euro. Happy hour drinks in one of the lovely squares with live music 2x500ml beers & 1 wine 14Euro yummy free nibbles. Fuel just along from where tied up Diesel was 1.25Euro per litre. This pump mainly for the fishing boats but happy to sell to us. Cost was more over the other side of marina at the other pump. Boats that had come from France filled up here before returning so guess it must be cheaper here.
Sightseeing - The bus trip up to Triora was a great day out into the hills, but perhaps an hour to long. Caught 9.15am up and 3.05pm back (no others). Buy tickets in station first (it's cheaper than on bus) 2.35Euro each, one way. It's about 1 1/4hours each way. You can catch the bus to Ventimiglia 2.00Euro each, one way (Ventimiglia is not worth an excursion unless enroute to Monte Carlo) and then the train to Monte Carlo 2.50Euro each, one way (we did this to collect Marks glasses) The San Remo bus station is about a block inland from the Casino Supermarket.
Radio - English speaking Radio station, from here to St Tropez, Riviera Radio 106.5FM
