Cruisin, Boozin' and Snoozin' 2008

Tug of war in the Andaman Islands

 It's 51 weeks since we untied Balvenie from her berth in Rebak Marina, Langkawi, Malaysia. Our goal for the season was Turkey and we have achieved it. We knew it was going to be a big year, with many miles to cover, some long passages to undertake, possible "pirate encounters", and the infamous Red Sea. What we totally underestimated was just how totally amazing it would be, we are both very well travelled but what we have seen and done this year has left us in awe.

After leaving Thailand we started in the Andaman Islands, governed by India and still following English traditions of the 1960's. You can not be in a rush here, the sooner you except this the more you will enjoy it. This is an island group incorporated with the Nicobar Islands. The Nicobar's are still off limits to any outsiders (including local Indians), the indigenous population roam the islands, defending them proudly and attacking any one that comes too close with bow and arrows. There are also islands within the Andaman group that are off limits, this is truly an outpost, sitting alone in the Bay of Bengal.

From here we were blown into the harbour at Galle in Sri Lanka. The unplanned stops are often the best and we had a great stay in Sri Lanka and managed to avoid the Tamal Tiger bomb blasts as we toured inland over Independence Weekend. This is a beautiful lush fertile country, but inland it is being torn apart by the fighting and on the coast they are still desperately trying to recover from the immense damage done in the 2005 Tsunami. They have a long road to recovery, unifying and rebuilding their country.

Colourful women of Eritrea

Onwards to the Maldives, hundreds of little atolls in the vast Indian Ocean, our time allowed just the one stop before moving on and completing the big ocean passages. Oman, well we had no idea what this part of the world would be like, maybe sand dunes and Bedouin nomads but neither were spotted, just rocks rocks and more rocks and many a camel! Oman is rich with oil wealth, new roads, latest design European cars and oh so dry. They may have oil, but they have no rainfall and the very rocky desert surely replicates a lunar landscape.

Next we moved along to Yemen and the southern Red Sea countries. This was a journey that took us back in time to the civilisations that were the founders of mankind. In Yemen, Eritrea and Sudan, time has stood still - they are truly amazing places and can not be compared to anything we have seen before. They take your breath away, and have left us with such deep lasting memories, they are a world apart and very special places. They are all so dreadfully poor, but they are survivors, they have been their since time began and life goes on regardless.



The men of Yemen

 Egypt was a huge challenge, the Egyptians being the most difficult race to deal with we have encountered. The history is phenomenal and we are pleased we have "been there - done that", would we return? NO! As someone recently said to me about Egypt "everything there is for dead people" and this is true. It is all about the tombs, the afterlife, and the treasures taken to the afterlife. Egypt may once have ruled much of civilisation and lead the way in many things but it seems it has never moved on.

And then we were in the Med, what an enormous relief and a huge sense of achievement. Greek Cyprus was a breath of fresh air after months in strict Muslim countries, it was great to feel normal again. It is a lovely island, lacking unfortunately in safe harbours so our time there was limited. Then we were just 180miles away from Turkey, we arrived 25 June and have enjoyed every day since cruising the magical southern coastline and a few of the Greek Dodecanese Islands.

Sudanese women

Has it been worth it? - absolutely! Obviously there is much publicity about the continued piracy attacks in the Southern Gulf of Aden, and most countries we visited had government warnings issued for travellers not to visit them. We never once felt threatened or unsafe, either at sea or on the land. Words really can't describe the truly amazing year we have had.

IN A NUTSHELL -
Countries visited - 13
Nautical miles travelled - 6743 of which 3263 were offshore
Nights at sea - 33
Nights tied up in Marinas or town quays - 90
Different Anchorages visited - 93 (several nights at some and also returns to some)
Nights spent off the boat touring - 13
Strongest winds - 38knots at anchor in Ras Banas, Egypt
Most miles covered in a day - 165m enroute to Oman from the Maldives
Fastest speed - 8.6knots, ironically on our last day cruising coming towards Marmaris!
Sleepless nights - 2 at sea Andamans to Sri Lanka with squalls, 1 in Greece and 3 in Turkey with thunderstorms late in the season and boats around us dragging
Rainy days - 1 (while on land travel to Asmara!). This should be rainy hours of which there are about 5 hours. A couple during squalls Andamans - Sri Lanka, 1 hour upon arrival in Maldives, and a couple of hours in recent weeks at night in Turkey
Cloudy days - 3 in Massawa while passing through the convergence zone, 1 in Turkey mid October
Sunny days - Every other day and long may it continue, currently 10.30am at 26c in Marmaris!!!!!
How much did it cost - When we were planning on going cruising it was so hard to find out how much people were spending, as I was told by one long term cruiser you will spend what you can afford which is very true. During these 51 weeks we spent an average of just under NZ$600 per week. This includes everything except for the cosmetic work we had done in Thailand (new galley bench, sail cover, fibreglass repairs to hull). I have also included all the food and alcohol provisions purchased in Langkawi before our departure from there

Skippers Malaysia-Med Cruising Notes

SKIPPER HAS HIS SAY (AT LAST)

Advice (for what its worth) and things I would do different if we did the Indian Ocean again.

1) Make sure your engine is in the best shape of its life !!
2) Make sure you are seriously spared up big time !!. Assume there is nothing between Thailand and Turkey. Get as much as you can in Langkawi. I waited until Phuket to get my Volvo and Yanmar spares/filters etc and paid up to 4 times more than I would in NZ or Oz. All the ports you visit support commercial and fishing fleets so there is always a local guy to help as long as you have the bits on board.
3) Have a very very close look at the booze situation. If you miss Sri Lanka and India you can’t buy any booze until Eygpt . Most boats ran out this year. Just think 3 cans a day (ha ha) for 5 months equals 450 cans equals 19 cases!!. etc etc. Tonic was not easily available (even in Phuket they had run out!!)
4) Have plenty photocopies of ships papers, passports and crew lists. Our boat stamp was well received. Need plenty passport photos too.
5) We have steps up to our first spreaders. These were invaluable on several occasions, we would not have been able to access some anchorages without them. So if you haven’t got them maybe consider fixing ratlines to get that extra height for visibility coming into the reef anchorages.
6) Handy to have a few jerry jugs. You don’t want to tie up to the wharfs - ugly ugly.
7) Don’t get too hung up on food supplies. There are first world supermarkets in Sri Lanka, Oman, Aden, Hurghada and Ismailia. Top up big time in Egypt its much cheaper than Cyprus, Israel or Turkey.
8) Unless you check- in at Malle, Maldives and pay a ton of money for a cruising permit (No time for cruising anyway you’re on a mission !!!) use Uligamu in northern Maldives as a pit stop only for a few days. Checking-in and out, getting fuel and water is a breeze, but you are not allowed to visit any other islands. Rest and move on. The best stuff is ahead of you.
9) Make sure you have a fishing line out closing on Salalah, plenty plenty Mahi Mahi!!!. Couldn’t haul them in fast enough. Good fishing right through till Egypt
10) Stay close to Yemen coast 15 miles or so, don’t miss Al Mukalla or Sana’a. Don’t leave until you’ve smoked a hubble bubble pipe in a Bedouin tent!!
12) No need to get involved in some military style formation synchronized motor sailing exercise. Just hang out with a couple of other boats and keep in sight during the day and maybe close up at night. Honestly we were as apprehensive as anybody about pirate alley but we ended up stopping along the Yemen coast and felt reasonably comfortable moving along the coast line with a few very friendly Yemeni patrols zooming by from time to time lobbing fish on to the boat!!
13) It is true. If it’s blowing 20knots in Aden its blowing 40knots in the Bab al Mandeb Strait. Gets very lumpy but its down hill and things flatten out after a few hours going north.
14) We more or less day sailed to Eygpt and worked our way north up the west coast in side many reefs and islands often sailing close hauled in lightish winds and flat water. Easy peasy!! This takes more time but be patent don’t push it. Just keep nibbling away. Reefs are very obvious.
15) North of Massawa – BEWARE!! An unexpected solid southerly is followed by a few hours of no wind is followed by a howler from the north. 3 times we were enjoying wing on wing sailing thinking the Red Sea is a breeze then the wind died and we motored for a few hours only to be stopped in our tracks by big northerly. Take the southerly but don’t be greedy and head for safe haven during the lull.
16) Don’t miss Massawa and Suakin
17) We only got adverse conditions a couple of times, both further north at night when you are forced to do a couple of overnighters so have a plan B.
18) I don’t mean to be a negative Nigel but the Red Sea isn’t done until its done. The toughest part for us was the last 180 miles from Hurghada up the Gulf of Suez. We were a tad late in the season by then (early June).
19) Fill up with diesel in Egypt USD0.18c a litre. Turkey is well over USD2.00 a litre, Greece currently 1.15Euro a litre.
20) Lastly have some "pirate packs" onboard. We put together water (or fizzy drinks), cigarettes, biscuits/cookies and basically anything else surplus we wanted to get rid of (old liferaft supplies!!) and threw them to the boats that came for a look. They were so grateful, and if you give them something they will then leave you alone (especially in Sri Lankan waters). Baseball caps were a winner too.

The journey from Thailand to Turkey was the most amazing season of our adventure so far. There is no doubt it’s a long haul and you are always aware of the clock ticking. The urge to get the whole journey behind you is strong when you leave Asia but try to fight it and spend time in these places. We left Nai Harn Bay on Phuket 21 December 2007 and ended up stopping in the Surins 1 week, Andamans 3 weeks , Sri Lanka 12 days, Maldives 1 week, Oman 10 days, 3 weeks in Yemen, 12 days in Eritrea, 13 days in Sudan , 5 weeks in Eygpt and a week in Cyprus and arrived in Turkey 25 June 2008. Wouldn’t have missed any of it!!

Gulf of Suez - A sting in the tale ... June 2008

29 May - 04 Jun 2008

**The Sinai Peninsular from the Straits of Gubal**Finally into flatter water with the Suez Canal in view**Annie and Liam from "Gone with the Wind", our welcoming committee into the Suez Yacht Club**

Day after day we sat tucked up at the Marina in Hurghada watching the wind instruments register the high 20’s. By now we had quite a collection of cruisers itching to get the last part of the Red Sea behind them. Finally everyone agreed the 29th of May was looking the best option with a 4 day weather window of lighter winds to get up the Gulf of Suez. Of course on the morning it wasn’t looking so good with over 20 knots still blowing from the north, but after Swanya, Endeavor, Margret, Skylark and Theleme left and reported the sea state as not as bad as expected, we, along with Hai Mei Gui and Gone with the Wind let the lines go and stuck our noses out too. We headed inside the reef and spent a quiet night at South Quesim Island along with Theleme, Hai Mei Gui and Gone with the Wind. All looked promising the next morning for the jump across the Straits of Gubal to the Sinai Peninsular and at 6.30am we weighed anchor in just 10 knots of breeze. All too good to be true and before we had even turned the boat we were up over 20knots in those particularly nasty short sharp seas the Red Sea is infamous for. We motored up inside the reef hoping for calmer seas but experienced one of the nastiest seas we had in the Red Sea, slamming into and falling off short steep waves and taking way too much water over the boat. We persevered and headed out across the Gulf, weaving through the shipping bound for and exiting the Suez Canal.

Once across the shipping lanes the seas finally started to flatten a little and by 4pm we were at anchor in El Tur on the Sinai Peninsular. There were several other yachts there waiting for better conditions to head north. Several of them had left Hurghada over a week before us and had been patiently awaiting better weather. When we awoke at 6.30am the following day there was only Gone with the Wind and ourselves left, we spoke to the others heading up the Gulf, they were having a hard time of it bashing north so we decided to stay the day in El Tur. The following day conditions were no better but Gone with the Wind decided to move on, we stayed, the only ones left!!

With conditions no better the following day and the forecasted easing of winds never eventuating we decided if the others could do it and get through then so could we. Over the next 2 days we had some mean little boat stopper waves, but just kept on ploughing our way through them and when we left our final anchorage 20 miles south of the Suez Canal the calm seas finally arrived and we motored north through the many anchored cargo ships to the Suez Canal. Finally we had made it to Port Suez and had the Red Sea behind us. We can’t begin to explain the feeling of absolute achievement and relief of getting to the bottom of the Canal. Sadly this is short lived when you then have to start the process of getting the boat “measured” so the fees for the Canal transit can be calculated. This is not as simple as the length or weight of the boat, this is after all, Egypt!!!

Port Suez is a good sized town but the harbour area has very little to offer. We went for an evening walk and joined many Egyptians out for an evening stroll along the Corniche, watching the ships motor by. There were no restaurants, cafes or any food vendors – everyone must eat at home. Finally we found a small local kebab place and had excellent kofta each, USD1.60 for the two of us, including a bottle of water, finally a bargain in Egypt.

The next morning after considerable negotiations with our agent and the measurer we finally agreed a price for our canal transit, port fees and agents fees of USD350 and without any delays our pilot was aboard and we departed Port Suez for Ismailia, 50miles up the Suez Canal. Many negative reports are said and written about the Suez pilots for small craft such as ours, unfortunately I cannot add anything positive. Our pilots boat handling skills were poor, manners appalling, he smoked nonstop in our cockpit when we asked him not to, he constantly complained about the speed we were achieving when we had adverse current and headwinds, demanded extra baksheesh over the USD25 offered then had the nerve to want the USD5 bill changed as he had ripped it when opening the envelope! Of the 15 boats we knew that transited the week we did everyone had similar stories to tell - Suez Port Authority it is seriously time you looked at your staff who we understand are paid quite well by Egyptian standards.

We arrived into Ismailia before dark and were helped into our med mooring spot by all our cruiser friends already there, just how you are supposed to pick up the very heavy mooring buoys that don't have any lines attached is a mystery to us all but Gone with the Wind were there with dinghy to take our lines and make life much easier, thanks
.

See our web album for more photos http://picasaweb.google.com/yachtbalvenie/2008Egypt

Egypt Anchorage Info:-

Across Foul Bay (aptly named). Thought how lucky we were leaving Elba Reef on an overnighter with a southerly this far up the Red Sea and ran with it all day and into the evening. About 10pm it suddenly died and while the sails were flapping and we were thinking of what to do, the wind came in from the north. Within about 10 minutes it had built to 25 – 30 knots and we got our first experience of the Red Sea short sharp chop which really does stop you dead. We bore away and headed for shelter in Ras Banas our first Egyptian anchorage and ended up there 8 days sitting out 30knots. You can day sail this and it is probably a good idea. Welcome to Egypt and a taste of things to come.
Ras Banas - 23 53.62N 35 46.93E dropped 8m settled 14m well hooked to coral but there are sandy patches. No respite from the wind as land low lying, sea choppy but it was 30knots and comfortable enough. All 14 boats managed to get anchors up ok at the end of the blow.
Dolphin Reef - 24 10.06N 35 40.77E 10m sand, excellent visibility there are some big bommies but easy to see. Didn’t note entry waypoint but came into western anchorage and entered from the west. CMap useless. Excellent shelter from sea, none from wind. Several boats had sat out the 30knots comfortably here. Swimming with the dolphins here was an absolute highlight and must not be missed!!! Had a huge day, motor sailed in light winds inside the reefs and just kept on going until
Samedi Reef - 24 58.91N 35 00.13E 20m coral with sand patches. None of this reef is above the water line and in flat seas you have no idea where it is (could be nasty). We could not locate the entrance in the Red Sea Pilot and ended up just picking our way in with Mark high up the rig, more nerves of steel required. There did look to be some mooring buoys in the northern part of the reef but light was so bad we didn’t risk motoring up there. Once anchored we noticed a marker and went over in the dinghy. It is on an outstanding coral bommie and had the best snorkelling we had seen since Papua New Guinea. This is the port marker for entering. It is on the western side of the reef. The starboard marker was snapped, we attached a bottle but how long will that last? The snorkelling on both these bommies was great and this was at about 6.30pm with very poor light. ENTRANCE WAYPOINT IN THE MIDDLE OF THESE 2 BOMMIES 24 58.87N 34 59.82E about 20metres no obstructions.
Port Ghalib - Marina - Port of Entry. Big yellow entry buoy outside entrance. Quite narrow entrance but very well marked and in lee of any northerly winds. You will be directed to big concrete wall on right as you come in to complete entry procedures, very clear water looks shallow but depths all ok. Once completed staff come around into marina with you (basically they are useless don’t give them important job!!) We stayed 2 nights but I don’t have note that we paid anything, maybe it was included in our USD150 checkin. Some berths side tie, some stern to. Fuel available in jugs or alongside but much cheaper in Hurghada. Very sheltered, but flies and dust, yuk.
Hurghada - Marina - Had another lovely southerly when we left on overnighter to Abu Tig Marina, just kept waiting for the following northerly buster and it came around 3am. We dropped sail as soon as we lost the southerly and motored the rest. Came in through the reefs to Hurghada as day broke, CMap spot on right through. Stopped at Hurghada Marina. 20 nights cost 1758EGP (could have stayed 1 month same price), included water and power.
South Qeisum - 27 40.16N 33 44.40E 6.2m mainly sand. Flat water but no shelter from wind. Came up through the reef in fairly flat water to here. Left in 20knots following morning, horrible most of day. Went inbetween Sandy Island and Nth Qeisem, between the 2 small reefs then up Zeit Channel. Absolutely no respite from seas, possibly would have been better out in straits from beginning. The further we got across the Straits of Gubal the better the seas were, but it wasn’t one of our better days.
El Tur - 28 14.03N 33 36.72E 5.5m sand good holding. There is a reason this is a world renowned windsurfing destination. Do not believe any wind forecasts that say it blows less over this side, we were having 30knots when it was forecast 5-8 knots.
Sha’b el Hasa/Sheritab Shoals - 28 35.50N 33 11.55E 5m find a sandy spot. Much flatter than it looks it will be. Swung to current. BEWARE of some huge mooring buoys north of here around 28 39.65N 33 10.67E, about 5 of them. In choppy seas or early morning light not easy to see.
Ras Sudr - 29 34.94N 32 42.16E 8m hard to set, possibly hard packed sand base. ALSO BEWARE chopped off oil rig reported at 29 37.75N 32 37.85E
Suez Yacht Club - 29 56.85N 32 34.40E fore and aft mooring buoys. USD20 per night (rip off but nowhere to anchor and you are SO pleased to be here!)
Ismailia Yacht Club - 30 35.10N 32 16.35E mooring buoys to attach to then stern tie to big concrete wall. Pray someone gets in before you to help cos no staff. No lines on buoys so rather tricky to pick mooring up without actually climbing off the boat and balancing on it. Good luck!!!! 10 nights was 649EGP including water and power.
Breathe a sigh of relief, the Red Sea and Indian Ocean is done and you can now leave Egypt (well you can stop at Port Fouad or Port Said, but WHY!!!!!!)

Sudan - the last of the slave traders ... April 2008

Hai Mei Gui entering Suakin

13 - 26 April 2008


Here we are sitting in Suakin, Sudan, with Liam and Annie off Gone with the Wind waiting to leave but havent got our passports back yet from Immigration, and each minute we wait the northerlies are building. We are only planning on going 10 miles up the coast but still dont really want to bash into it so we will see what its like when we are ready. Had an interesting day yesterday, if we thought Massawa in Eritrea was a bit ramshakle you should see this place, basically the whole of Suakin is in ruins, the buildings were made of coral so eventually they just crumble, and crumbled they have!!!This used to be a very important port and goes down in history as the place the last boatload of slaves were sent from Africa to the US. There are a handful of cars here, mainly donkey and cart, dirt roads the odd camel, plenty of goats and lovely people. Most of the men wear the long white thobe and the women the very colourful wrap around that pretty much covers them all up, but its a pleasant change from the black in Oman and Yemen.

Time out for a coffee Sudanese style on the
Corniche in Port Sudan

Yesterday afternoon we caught the local bus about an hour north to Port Sudan. It is a long straight flat road through the sand, several settlements of what could only be called cardboard shacks, all looked somewhat bleak but most tidy and cared for. Port Sudan was alot bigger than we expected, very wide streets and some old colonial buildings in not too bad a shape. We went for a walk to the Port (cos it was over an hour since we had seen water!!!!) and sat on mats on the ground, drinking some rather good sweet coffee from one of 17 vendors on the Corniche (promenade), they have a little drum type fire permanently in the ground, with the big pots of water, tea and coffee bubbling away over coals. It was quite an experience. Then we wandered through all the streets and back to the bus station which at 5pm was a absolute hive of industry.

Downtown Suakin, hardly what you could call modern!!

After stopping for some fresh mango juice and spiced kebab meat chopped and mixed with tomato and herbs served in fresh hamburger type buns we went to find a bus back here. About 1/2hour later and still not being able to find a bus the 4 of us were deposited into a mini-minivan not actually sure of where we were being taken, just hoping we werent being kidnapped!!! All was well, one should have faith in Allah, as our driver took us to another bus station on the outskirts of town and we hopped onto the next bus home. It is just a two lane road and for some reason there were about 100 trucks backlogged and almost stationery, not to be deterred our driver simply drove down the wrong side for miles with some rather sudden breaking to squeeze between these big beasts, alternatively we went offroading into the desert sands to avoid oncoming traffic, one of the more action packed rides we have had, and happily we live to tell the tale!!!! Although the trucks werent marked as UN or were obviously carrying Aid we can only assume that that is what it all was, as there is almost zero industry here, maybe they were all headed for the Dafour region, many many miles away.

So we have our passports back now (but no Sudan stamp!!!) but the wind is up to 20knots so we are staying put and will leave at first light, which since our latest time change is now 4.30am eek!!! From here we do some marsa (reef) hopping up the Sudanese then Egyptian Coasts and according to those that have done this we should experience some of the best diving/snorkelling in the world. We have now moved out of the region of prevailing southerlies so will go as far as we can each time we have favorable winds - until we pop out into the Med.

The boys with their boats, ashore on
 Long Island in the Shubuk Channel

Another sunny day in Sudan. Yesterday we left from our anchorage north of Suakin and sailed up past Port Sudan out to the wreck of the Umbria, reputed to be the best wreck dive in the Red Sea. We picked up a mooring buoy and went for a snorkel over it which was pretty good as some of it is quite shallow so worthwhile doing, then we sailed out to a reef into an anchorage with GWTW and a couple of dive boats for the night. Today we sailed back into the coast and GWTW went up to another reef where Jacques Cousteau lived underwater for months observing hammerhead sharks and now they have joined us here at Marsa Fijab and we are going ashore soon to watch the sunset. There were camels on the beach when we came in but they have gone now. Tomorrow we will move again, trying to nibble away at the many miles we still have to go to get up the Red Sea. We were going to do an overnight tonight but all the boats ahead of us on the radio net this morning were getting 20-30knts on the nose so changed our minds.

We are just nibbling away at the miles each day, Taila Island was beautiful and we would have loved to stay longer but we are getting towards the end of the season, we need to keep going, onto Wreck Recovery Anchorage which we arrived into too late in the day and it was very difficult to see our way, we took it very slowly and were ok. On next to Kor Shinab another stunning spot with a lunar landscape, met up again with My Chance, Sandpiper and Shiraz, nice to see some more yachts again. We would have liked to spend longer here too but we had a good forecast so onwards we go. Next stop was Elba Reef with some excellent snorkelling through the pass, we arrived late in the afternoon but the light was still good enough and it was one of the better snorkels we have had so far up here. From here we will do an overnighter across Foul Bay (sounds ominous, can't wait)

Hello all from Egypt, we think this is our 17th country in the past 12months and the 9th since leaving Rebak, phew no wonder we feel pooped. Actually we do feel rather pooped, we left Elba Reef (best snorkeling since the Louisiades) just south of the Sudanese/Egyptian boarder at 6am yesterday with a very rare southerly forecast of 10-15knots and had a great sail in those winds and flat seas for about 3 hours, then it just built and built but luckily still from the south but peeked at 30knots with some rather lively seas to go with it. It started easing after dark and at 8pm just died for about 10 minutes then whamo, 20-25knots from the dreaded northwest just where we were headed. So we bashed into it all night motorsailing, changed our destination and are tucked up in Ras Banas, no cover from the wind but reasonably flat seas. Besides GWTW, 5 other boats have come in too so far, so we will now just sit and wait. Egypt doesnt look to have nearly as many anchorages that we can do as day sails unfortunately so might have to do some more overnighters to get us the 401 miles left to the Suez Yacht Club at the bottom of the canal. Still sounds quite a long way really, but we are getting there. Got in at 7am so have had a little sleep, snorkeling looks good but a little choppy at the mo. Afternoon at leisure I think, well it is Sunday!!!!

Sudan Anchorage Info:
Shatira Islet at Kor Nawarat - 18 15.00N 38 19.33E 8.9m good holding. Entered through East Passage around noon. Excellent visibility, CMap ok. Watch for charted shoals
Reasonable snorkel on outside of reef between Shatira Islet and Farrajin Island.
Long Island in Shubuk Channel - 18 46.39N 37 39.47E in 5.5m. We arrived late in day, visibility poor. We encountered some patches shallower than charted and took it very slowly. A boat anchored a little further to the west of us outside a natural indentation in the island nudged some uncharted rocks there. Interesting vegetation ashore, did big walk
Transiting Shubuk Channel - CMap is all off but it gives you a reasonable overview along with the waypoints in the Red Sea Pilot. I thought they were out but I think it may have been my fault. The channel markers are mostly in place and if you take your time its fine. Don’t recall any shallows to worry about. We motored through in light winds.
Suakin - 19 06.48N 37 20.33E 6m holding ok, very sheltered from everything. Final part of entrance a little tight and scenery amazing, the scenery is still there once you have anchored so just concentrate on getting in first!!! CMap pretty good and visibility excellent for commercial port. Don’t miss this place.
Marsa Ata - 19 17.42N 37 19.67E 12m sand Entry on CMap was close enough but rest out. Again go slow, have someone up the rig. Snorkelling was quite good on inside of reef, very shallow but good. We did a dinghy drift for happy hour, went up the Marsa for about 10mins in the dinghy, got the nibbles and drinks out and drifted back to the boats. We drifted under the bridge deck of GWTW without any manoeuvring, beat that!!!!
Umbria Wreck - Mooring buoys approx 19 38.45N 37 17.44E in about 14m. Take dinghy over to the wreck, there are little buoys to moor dinghy to. Wreck located approx 19 38.17N 37 17.44E (this is estimate), there are 2 funnels partly sticking out of the water, not that apparent. We snorkelled the wreck and it was interesting enough, Liam dived on it and thought it was excellent. We did not stay overnight but in calm conditions it would be fine.
Sanganeb Reef - 19 44.07N 37 26.74E dropped 12m settled 19m lots of coral (well it is a reef) and mostly quite deep. We arrived late and although not entering into the sun visibility was poor. Followed the leads 107o in, then turned right between marks, the port mark is snapped off at water level hard to see. Zoom CMap to 15,000. Didn’t snorkel here, late arrival & early departure. It is said to be good. GWTW went up to the Shab Rumi the ex Cousteau site and enjoyed diving/snorkelling there and managed to pick up a mooring for an hour enroute.
Marsa Fijab - 20 01.80N 37 11.46E in 4.5m holding ok. Entrance ok on CMap then eyeball, channel is apparent. We saw camels on the beach here (the only place). We continued north up inside the reefs
Taila Island - 20 38.05N 37 13.45E dropped 8m settled 13m. A lot of coral on bottom but water so clear you can pick your spot. It was lovely here, this along with Shumma Island back in Eritrea were my 2 favourites in the Red Sea. We went between Taila Island and the mainland heading north (its just a big grey patch on CMap) until north of Jazirat Magarsam then turned right through channel markers and over shallows. We followed the markers around to
Wreck Recovery Anchorage - 21 00.95N 37 18.57E in 13m coral everywhere. Visibility very poor, we had no wind but it didn’t look like there would be any shelter. Few of these reefs were above water, we were not at all comfortable in here but had a peaceful night and made it out again the next morning. This was our least favourite anchorage. Sailed up outside Qumeira Reef onto OUTSIDE ENTRANCE WAYPOINT to Kor Shinab 21 20.91N 37 03.93E can eyeball from there even in afternoon sun.
Kor Shinab - 21 21 09N 37 00.73E 10.5m good holding. CMap in channel all out but stay in the middle and very straight forward. Amazing place, worth the motor in.
Elba Reef - ****need anchor w/p**** 13m flat water. Very good snorkelling all around reef entrances. CMap for entrance gap was ok but for reefs all out. WAYPOINT IN ENTRANCE 21 59.12N 36 59.47E. Need very good light (we arrived quite late), must have someone up the rig and helmsperson must trust their judgement and have nerves of absolute steel. We could not pick the entrance without Mark up the rig, GWTW waited for us as they could not locate it as no mast steps.
Across Foul Bay (aptly named). Thought how lucky we were leaving Elba Reef with a southerly this far up the Red Sea and ran with it all day and into the evening. About 8pm it suddenly died and while the sails were flapping and we were thinking of what to do, the wind came in from the north. Within about 10 minutes it had built to 25 – 30 knots and we got our first experience of the Red Sea short sharp chop which really does stop you dead. We bore away and headed for shelter in Ras Banas our first Egyptian anchorage and ended up there 8 days sitting out 30knots. Welcome to Egypt and a taste of things to come.

Sudan Cruising Info:
Weather - We had blue skies and light northerlies right though Sudan. The waters are sheltered by the reefs and we managed to sail nearly all of it in the light winds. Hai Mei Gui and Yosun encountered their first taste of the Red Sea infamous short and steep between Shubuk Channel and Suakin and took shelter in Marsa Ibraham. It was just 15 knots but they could make no progress with the sea state. They were just one day behind us.
Security - Just no issues, felt totally safe on the boat, in Suakin and in busy Port Sudan. Recommended to keep at least 5 miles offshore when passing the boarders in and out.
Phone/Internet - No cells, possibly pay phone in Port Sudan not in Suakin. No Internet in Suakin but HMG found somewhere in Port Sudan (very very slow).
Checking in and out - Mohammed in his flowing white gowns will stand on shore waving at you. Take your papers in to him, he is English educated and easy to deal with, and organises everything. Cost was USD130 total. Yosun tried to checkin independently but gave up and used Mohammed too
Money - We changed USD25 for 50 Sudanese Pounds with Mohammed, he will change back any unused at same rate.
Tours - We took the local bus to Port Sudan and back, 14 pounds return for 2. The bus in Port Sudan does not leave from where it drops you (see tale above)
Provisions - Excellent fruit and veg market in Suakin, also good pita type bread. Chicken and goat available from the market – not for the faint hearted!! No other provisions but Port Sudan had some reasonably stocked stores and a good market.
Fuel and water - Mohammed organised fuel easily @ USD.74c a litre in our jerry jugs. We didn’t need water but probably can be done, there are water tanker donkey and carts that could come right to your dinghy if needed.

Eritrea - Land of contrasts ... Apr 2008

01 - 12 Apr 2008

***Barbie on the beach at Shumma Island*** Choosing a basket enroute to Asmara***The excellent fruit and Vegetable market at Asmara
***Donkey on Dhow in Massawa***

We have finally made it into the Red Sea. We left at 1am from a small fishing village on the southern coast of Yemen to the "Gates of Sorrow" - the southern entrance to the Red Sea then sailed up the middle to the Hanish Islands, still part of Yemen, a large volcanic island group in the middle. We had the most winds - 35 knots and biggest seas - 3 metres, we have had in a long while but coped ok and sure made good time. We have now said goodbye to Yemen and had a more enjoyable sail across to the African Coast tucked up in another stunningly spectacular volcanic spot on the southern coast of Eritrea at Mersa Dudo. We lost our fishing gear on the way over, taken by a big tuna that just wasn't ready to die. Oh well the freezer is pretty full anyway.

We are now in company with 2 more boats, Hai Mei Gui and Mariah and will make our way north taking advantage of the southerly winds when they blow. We moved up overnight with gentle southerlies to Port Smythe at Shumma Island, not really what you would call a port but what a beautiful little island with a lovely beach for a barbie and some good snorkeling and enjoyed two nights there. HMG stopped before Shumma and TD and Mariah decided to get some miles under their keels and fast tracked to Egypt leaving GWTW and us to explore the nearby anchorage at Dehalak Desert. This lagoon anchorage was very interesting with Russian shipwrecks lying about and some sort of mining going on ashore, all rather weird really.

Next it was across to Massawa, once quite a bustling port, but that was then! Although unfair to say Massawa is basically a town in ruins it is close to the truth, but Eritrea has the 2nd lowest GDP in the world and it is evident here. The anchorage was very sheltered and although there had been some problems with locals boardings yachts at night and undertaking petty theft we decided to travel inland and visit the capital of Asmara with GWTW and HMG. We organised this through Mike's Yacht Services at the Jasmine Cafe on the waterfront, he booked the minivan and driver and organised our hotel.

Everything went well except it poured with rain and was even colder than expected, about 12c so that made things a bit soggy and none of us took raincoats. It was all very strange, no mobile phones (for international), no atm's - for a capital its all pretty backward, but the main palm lined boulevard filled with Italian style cafes with espresso machines and all manner of pastries, pizzas and pastas, with all the black African locals just sitting around supping on something, lattes were 50cents so pretty affordable. Then there were some flash shops selling Italys latest designs and then one block back you are back in Africa, markets, donkey drawn carts etc. Quite bizarre. They are holding onto their Italian influence but only by their toenails!! The market was amazing, excellent fruit and vegetable with basically everything, next door was the 2nd hand clothing market with the tailors close by to adjust new purchases to measure, as was the footwear market with the cobblers positioned ready for minor adjustments. The Asmara trip was definitely worth it just to see this tiny piece of Italy in poorest Africa and the scenery en route was spectacular as you climb higher and higher into the mountains, the temperature drops, the clouds appear, the hillsides are greener, the contrast from the desert scenery we had become used to was welcome.

Back in Massawa we took a day off to have a wander round town, took some photos, and saw all there is to see (which is alot of bombed out buildings). It was time to start heading north again, from here on we could expect to start getting more northerlies so we needed to keep moving so on we went. We had one night anchored about 20 miles north of Massawa at Sheikh Al Abu then with GWTW did an uneventful overnighter and headed for Sudan.
see our web album for more photos http://picasaweb.google.com/yachtbalvenie/2008Eritrea
ERITREA
Anchorage Info:
Greater Hanish Island – 13 40.63N 42 40.94E dropped in 11m settled in 24m. Already 3 others in before us and a lot of coral patches so difficult to find a spot shallow enough
Mersa Dudo – 13 52.05N 41 54.39E 8.5m sand, good holding, big bay plenty room. Some winds bullets as closing on anchorage but flat seas. Had a great sail across to here. Very good walking here (we heard) we had a favourable wind window so left the next day for an overnighter. Some boats earlier in the season got stuck here for days in 40knots.
Port Smyth/Shumma Island - 15 32.10N 39 59.49E 7.8m sand. Whoever named this a port was over zealous. It’s a lovely little deserted island anchorage entry in through the reef. CMap was pretty good, sun is behind in the afternoon so reef fairly easy to spot, shows bearing of 055 on CMap scale 15,000, we entered on 071. Makeshift leads onshore didn’t look right so we eyeballed it from up spreaders. Bar-b-que ashore, beautiful. Snorkelling/diving very good
Dehalak Desert - 15 40.82N 39 57.99E 12m holding ok. Slight side trip to here but rather an interesting place in a weird way. Ex Russian military base and still some inhabited buildings ashore. CMap ok and entrance through into lagoon very straightforward. Not a must do but worth seeing
Massawa - 15 36.59N 39 27.84E 7.7m good holding. CMap ok, channel easy enough to follow. Inner harbour enclosed anchorage very sheltered. Entered the convergence zone here, first cloudy days and very little fine mist of rain. After the convergence zone you should expect Northerlies to be the norm.
Sheikh El Abu - 16 02.11N 39 27.23E 7.3m good holding, still overcast skies. From here we did an overnighter to Sudan back into the sunshine and we would not see clouds again until late October in Turkey

Cruising Info:
Weather – The winds howl most of the time up the Straits of Bab el Mandeb, the southern entrance to the Red Sea. They blow from the south, year round. As we entered the small boat strait (the eastern one) at dawn the winds were light and seas flat, we thought we had done oh so well. As day broke the winds and seas built and built up to 30 – 40 knots with 3 - 4 metre seas, from behind. We stayed east of the shipping lanes but some ships were outside the lanes, and we did have to cross as well so you need to be pretty alert all day (and you have been up since at least 1am, or longer if you have come straight from Aden). As we closed on the Hanish Islands the seas calmed as did the wind, but as you round the bottom of Greater Hanish to head for the anchorages there were some strong gusts off the land but flat water. From here on we didn’t get more than 15knots, until Foul Bay in Egypt. Enjoy light winds and flat seas inside the reefs.
Security - Earlier in the season a boat had been boarded in Massawa and a few things stolen off the deck, while they slept below. This put many of the fleet off stopping there which is a real shame. We left the boat while we did an overnighter to Asmara, we paid for 1 boat boy between the 3 boats just to keep an eye on things, he slept in the cockpit. We put away anything they may have been tempted to steal, we had no issues. At night we started putting out a portable entry alarm in the cockpit which has a heat sensor on it and makes a hell of a racket. This gave us peace of mind that if someone came onboard we would be awoken and they would get a big fright with the noise. We used it right through until Cyprus. The night after we left Massawa an Australian yacht was boarded. They hadn’t been aware of the possible problems and unfortunately had laptop, camera and chargers for both stolen. Sadly they did hear noise but did not get up to check on it, their things were not recovered.
The Island of Difnien which is north of Sheikh El Abu has not got a yachtie friendly reputation. Tactical Directions were chased by men in a speed boat with guns, indicating they wanted them to stop and anchor at the island. Tony just put his foot down and got out of there as quick as he could. It is suggested you go up the west side of the island and keep well clear if you are worried. Hai Mei Gui and Yosun both anchored there just days after TD’s incident and had no problems but men with guns in a speed boat did want to check their papers.
Phone - As you enter Bab el Mandeb there is cell coverage briefly, so use up all your credit on your Yemen or Oman SIM, they don’t work further on. Ring or text everyone and tell them you’ve made it to the Red Sea!!!! No phones in Eritrea, SIM cards for local calls only. Pay phone at post office
Checking in and Out - Everything is in the harbour area, took a couple of hours. Checking in cost ENK10. We got visas for the 2 of us USD80 (can’t remember but think we only needed these if we went to Asmara, otherwise would have just been shorepasses). Passports checked every time we exited and entered the harbour complex. Make sure you have them as HMG went into town one day without them, got out without them but were NOT allowed back in in the evening. They ended up having to stay ashore overnight until they could go to Immigration in the morning!!!!, No charge to check out.
Money - Change USD into ENK (Nafka), changed some with Mike at Jasmine Café USD1 = ENK 17 and changed USD50 officially upon checkin USD1 = ENK15. No ATM machines in Massawa or Asmara, no credit cards accepted. Start using those USD’s!!!!
Tour - 6 of us shared a mini bus (no aircon but didn’t need it) to Asmara, up one morning back next afternoon. Cost 870ENK our 1/3rd share. (There was a local bus). Hotel Central in Asmara, with bathroom and tv 368NK double. Its a lot cooler up in Asmara take warm clothes and covered shoes, also rain jacket it poured down on us. Our share of the boat boy was ENK80. Mike at Jasmine Café organised the minibus and boat boy and also booked the hotel and we paid them all direct. We then paid him USD5 to arrange it all. Journey up and down to Asmara very interesting and scenic. Excellent Italian Restaurant on Main St in Asmara, called something like Pizza House and has a logo that looks like Pizza Hut, lovely inside and great food. Heaps of little cafes. Don’t miss the huge market just 2 blocks back, and the recycle market comes highly recommended but it was closed due to too much rain.
Provisions - Those that had been hoping to get alcohol were sadly disappointed. The beer bottling machine had broken down, not a bottle to be had. Wine in Asmara was off, basically don’t plan on getting anything here. Excellent fruit and veg market in Asmara, we filled up here. Very little in Massawa, no supermarkets – get it all in Aden.
Fuel and Water - We didn’t need fuel or water. Could get diesel at fuel station down the road, don’t have cost. Not an easy exercise as taxi not allowed into dock area.

Yemen - Stepping back in time...... March 2008

**The women goatherders of the Hadramaut** **Old Sana'a at dusk from the rooftop of our hotel** **Basket shop in Sana'a** **Blending in with the locals for our walking tour of old Sana'a. Our guide, Tony, Annie, Mark, Amanda and Gary** **Camels and donkeys are common modes of transport** **The immaculately presented assistants in the fabric shop - complete with daggers in their belts (didn't work out if they used them instead of scissors though!!!)**

11 - 31 March 2008

We had a great time in Yemen, I would recommend it to any one thats "been there, done that" and wants something different. The history is mind boggling, back to Noahs Ark times, artifacts 12,000 years old (water urns and tools) buildings from the year dot, you really did just feel that the three wise men were going to pop round the corner at any time.

We left Salalah in company with Gone with the Wind and Tactical Directions to head west along the Oman and Yemen coasts, through "pirate alley" and into the Red Sea. We were all tired of passages so decided to try and do short hops wherever we could. The first short hop however was an overnighter and saw us arrive late afternoon in the Yemenese fishing village of Nishtun, judging by our reception there we may have been the first yachts they had seen for quite some time. We were requested to up anchor just on dark and to come into the small harbour and tie alongside the big concrete wall for our own safety. We weren't that happy about it but had a peaceful night tied up. We had officials check our passports and boat papers but were not checked into Yemen by them. We had the chance to wander around the dock in the morning and watch all the fishing boats arrive in with their catches. There is certainly no shortage of fish around these parts. We were not permitted outside the port and were closely watched by armed personnel at all times but felt very safe.

Then it was on along the absolutely stunning coastline for another overnighter to Ras Sharma, an absolutely beautiful horseshoe bay tucked behind an easily accessible headland, it is simply gorgeous complete with a white washed building in biblical setting on shore, so good we stayed two nights. There is no village here but the few locals ashore were welcoming enough when we visited the next evening to sit with our sundowners to watch the sun dip into the sea. Next stop was Al Mukalla, a day sail along the coast. First and lasting impressions of Al Mukalla from the sea is WOW, like a scene from 1001 Arabian Nights. We experienced our first true multi prayer call in here, the acoustics into the bay were almost deafening, but just amazing.

We had a very easy check in through an agent (Maher) who organised shore passes for us straight away so we could get in and explore up close. Maher also did tours inland so we left Balvenie at anchor and along with the crews off My Chance, Yosun, Phonix, Tactical Directions and Gone with the Wind set out in 2 minivans for an overnight tour inland. The tour up into the Hadrawat Wadi (Valley) was incredible, this is where the Bin Ladens have been for centuries. We stayed the night in Seiyan in a good tourist hotel with ensuite for USD15, went to Shimban, "Manhatten in the Desert" built 1600 years ago, one square mile with all these highrises about 8 stories high!!!! Its not like they didnt have enough room!! We saw the women goatherders, totally covered in black in the searing heat tending their herds and doing all the farm work, they wear a conical hat unlike anything we have seen else wear in the world. This is a land untouched by modern ways and the women in particular did not welcome the attention afforded them by the few tourists around. Maher arranged all this tour, processed our visas, and escorted us along with an armed guard on each minivan and it was excellent. Yemen is certainly having its problems policitally and there have been some incidents involving tourists but we felt very safe and generally welcome where ever we went.

From Al Mukalla it was back to sea and into "pirate alley" . Again we were in company with TD and GWTW for the 2 night sail to Aden, we sailed during the day within sight of each other then closed together at night and motored in very light winds. It worked very well for us and the only other boat we saw was a Yemen Coastguard vessel that came alongside to make sure we were ok. When TD and GWTW said the only thing wrong was that they weren't catching fish the Coastguard vessel went off to a nearby fishing vessel and came back with two tuna each for them, now that's hard to beat!!! We had absolutely no issues with feeling threatened and personally think the closer to Yemen you stay the safer you are. We probably averaged about 15 miles offshore in Pirate Alley. While day sailing we were always within sight of land.

The anchorage in Aden is ok, not great but a secure area and reasonably sheltered in the inner harbour. The weather had been settled so we decided to fly up to Sana'a, Yemens Capital, just USD108 return and only 45minutes for an overnight excursion. We didn't prebook but stayed in the www.dawoodhotel.com in the old city, in an original tower building USD35 share bathroom (between 2 rooms), it was absolutely amazing and would be the most authentic of anywhere we have ever stayed and had a great location. The walled Sana'a old city is incredible, all women either completely covered in their black (as with everywhere in Yemen and Oman) or some of the older women (they were stooped so guessing they were older!!!) had brightly coloured shawls (but all same pattern) but still completely covered, heavens knows how they see out. The men either had the "thobe" white robe or earthy tones wrap with shirt but all from about age 10 wore traditional heavy belt and dagger, just amazing, you really felt like you had stepped back in time couple of hundred years, had to be there really, words can't describe it. Annie and I went with a local girl for a hammam "turkish bath" which was quite an experience, the surrounds looked about 1000ys old and most probably were, then had our hands and feet hennaed. The market was amazing, the street scenes out of biblical movie sets, the architecture stunning and we even got interviewed for Yemen television as they have so few tourists.

I really can not speak highly enough about our time in Yemen, it is definately not for those not used to being off the beaten track, and you should check out the political situation first (not that we did), but it was outstanding., the most welcoming people we have come across, good food, interesting shopping, spectacular anchorages and good fishing, 10 out of 10.

From Aden we moved ever westward heading for the Red Sea, we had an overnight stop in Ras Imran a excellent sheltered bay, then the next night at Ras Al Arah which sits on a low, windy sandspit, its not great but we were leaving at 1am to head for the biggie "Bab el Mandeb" - "The Gates of Sorrow" the southern entrance to the Red Sea on 31 March 2008.

Yemen Anchorage info:
Nishtun 15 49.11N 52 11.73E initially anchored here in 6.5m, quite choppy and just outside the breakwater and dock (CMap not accurate and shows this as other side of bay). Just on dusk we were instructed to move into the tiny harbour and tie alongside the big concrete jetty. Armed guard either protected or watched us all night! Although not that happy about tying to the wall we complied and had a very calm and comfortable night. We were processed by someone in a uniform who checked our papers and took details but did not check us into Yemen
Ras Sharma 14 49.37N 50 01.29E 9.7m horseshoe bay, excellent protection and holding
Al Mukalla 14 31.59N 49 07.98E 7.0m mud bottom, good holding 7boats in there with us and started to fill up as a couple of wrecks to be aware of (easy to see)
Aden 12 47.53N 44 58.84E 8m mud, holding ok, chopped up some in strong winds. Not a huge anchorage but think we had about 14boats at one stage which was snug
Ras Imran/Jabal Aziz 12 44.50N 44 42.57E 6.2m flat water even though rolly outside
Ras Al Arah 12 37.30N 43 54.73E 11.4m flatish water in 25knots. No shelter from wind, bleak looking place but good jump off around 1am for dawn arrival at Bab el Mandeb

Yemen Cruising info:
Security - We had a boat boy onboard in Al Mukalla (shared 1 between 2 boats) while we did our tour. We didn't bother in Aden. We felt very very safe on land and at sea in Yemen
Phone/Internet - Our Oman SIM card worked here also. Didn't find WIFI but good internet at internet cafe in Lulu's mall
Checking into Al Mukalla - Maher (who looks about 16) turned up at the boat to take away our papers, we checked with the boats that had arrived the previous day to check he was some sort of official! He doesn't charge a fixed price (always tricky) we paid him YRL4,000 on departure. Visas for the 2 of us were YRL20,000. We would not have required these if we had not done the inland travel, we would have been issued only with shore passes which are free.
Checking out of Aden - No charge, do it yourslf all within walking distance of anchorage
Tour from Al Mukalla - Our tour was YRL22,000 including van, driver, guard and Maher. All meals, entrance fees and the accomodation were extra (but cheap).
Tour from Sana'a - Return Flights from Aden were USD108 each. Dawood Hotel USD35 double, we got taxis to/from both airports.
Provisions - Huge Lulu's but I actually thought the one in Salalah was better. Top up to get you through to Hurghada in Egypt. Can get nearly everything except pork products. Prices much same as Thailand. Last chance for milk powder (can't even get in Turkey)
Fuel in Aden - There is a fuel dock you can go alongside to. We filled our jerry jugs at USD.715 per litre. Its a drawn out excercise, with plenty of people to see and forms to fill.
Money - USD1 = YMR200 16 Mar 2008. USD available in cash machines in Al Mukalla and Aden - stock up on USD for the Red Sea, no where takes credit cards. Any fuel, food, tours, checkin/checkouts will need USD or local money changed from USD. This is your last chance to get it