16-18 June 2010***view across to the little harbour from our sundowner stop***Amalfi town from Balvenie***the gardens at the hilltop village of Ravello***squeezed in at Amalfi, our neighbours were White Rose from England and Skylark from Auckland***
Having left Agropoli, we were having a pleasant sail across the Gulfo de Salerno , hard on the wind but with only 10 knots of breeze and flat seas. As we closed the coast the wind picked up to 20 knots, hugging the coast and whipping up an annoying little chop and swell. We had hoped to anchor in the small space available at Amalfi but it had almost all been totally buoyed off as a swimming area leaving the only anchoring area outside the breakwater and exposed to the wind, chop and swell - not to mention the constant wash from small ferries, day tripper boats and transfer boats ferrying people to and from a cruise ship anchored off.
It was time to pay the money and tie up! We approached the small town quay, hoping there would be room as there was little space to manoeuvre if we needed to turn and leave, we got waved in, mooring lines passed out to us along with a bottle of Limencello - the local brew, by the very efficient Ormeggio (harbour master), what a welcome - that was easy. It wasn't quite the flat water you expect when tied to a dock, still plenty of wash, and we did roll but what a great setting, tucked up under the amazing Amalfi cliffs.
The small Amalfi waterfront is a ramshackle place, very busy with tourist boats during the day but things quieten down some at night. There is a large town square found by entering through an archway from the seafront, it is set at the foot of the stunning cathedral that dominates the surroundings. There are several small but tasteful shops so it has quite a buzz but is very unpretentious, most tourists seem only to visit Amalfi for a few hours and choose to stay in more chic spots along the coast.
We visited the coast by bus, described as an unforgettable experience, and very true to word. The tiny road, just one lane in parts, threads its way along a rock ledge with the sea along way down in parts, stunning scenery but not for the faint hearted. The bus drivers do an amazing job of winding round the tight bends, a twitchy finger on the horn continuously and amazingly (and thankfully) keeping the bus attached to the road. First we headed up in to the mountains, hoping for some cooler air, to the small village of Ravello.
Once we turned from the coast the trip up the valley was also spectacular, what at first glance appeared to be terraces of vineyards as far as the eye could see, turned out to be lemon trees, thousands of shiny green leafed lemon trees. We had arrived in one of the worlds largest lemon producing areas, hence Limencello being the local drink of choice. Ravello is set high up above the med with a stunning vista both inland and out to sea, its a great spot to visit for a couple of hours, take in the gardens, small shops, tiny lanes, the church in the main square that has the floor designed so it slopes from the altar down to the front door. People watching was combined with a morning cafe latte and cornetti.Back on the bus to Amalfi and then after a short wait we were on our way to Positano, the most photographed and famous village in the area. Again the bus journey was a nailbiter but oh so scenic. The number of buildings perched on rock ledges high above the crystal clear med waters amazed us - still they have survived many an earthquake and the odd eruption along this coast! but would they survive the next one?
The buildings of Positano cascade down to the sea from high above, painted in many differing pastel shades they really do look a treat tumbling in to one another, separated by a blossoming bougainvillea here or an oleander tree there, interspersed with grapevines and lemon trees, all with the med lapping at the shores of the well attended beach, an absolute feast for the eyes. It is easy to see why this is such a popular spot.We stopped for a great pizza lunch, sat on the waterfront and soaked it all in. After a somewhat hot and strenuous walk back up several hundred steps we happened upon the main road at last, summer had definitely arrived and this sort of exercise under the hot afternoon sun takes its toll. An airconditioned bus ride back to Amalfi, a cooling dip in the med, a chilled vino bianco in the shady cockpit and an excellent pasta out ashore ended a superb stopover on this amazing coastline.
Cruising Info for Amalfi:-
Anchorages - There really is room only for about 4 boats to anchor outside the harbour entrance "freeway". You can anchor the other side of the harbour wall big breakwater (to the west) but exposed to any westerly and any swell.
Harbour Wall - 45€ per night seemed set fee not dependant on length. Optional water and power both 5€ extra. It was still rolly in here but ok. Very short walk to town.
Communications - WIND dongle ok, TIM and Vodafone phone signals good
Money - ATM's ashore in old town
Provisions - Supermarket in old town, walk up only street away from water, just up on the right up a small alley.
Formalities - still none
Communications - WIND dongle ok, TIM and Vodafone phone signals good
Money - ATM's ashore in old town
Provisions - Supermarket in old town, walk up only street away from water, just up on the right up a small alley.
Formalities - still none
Sightseeing - One day bus pass valid from Salerno to Sorrento for €7.50 each. Buy from office opposite bus station
