Inland to the Nile ... May 2008

Avenue of the Spinxes in Luxor
10-28 May 2008

We spent the next a few days cleaning up and relaxing while organising our Nile Cruise and minibreak!! We were recommended the “Nile Admiral” ship and Cairo based GAT Tours and booked everything via internet and received excellent and prompt service. We were able to pay the 4 night cruise (USD76pp pn including all meals, tours, admissions, guides) at a local bank in Hurghada in either USD or EGP which suited us well and they also arranged our transfer to Luxor with the tourist convey to connect with the cruise. This was USD45pp which was much more than we paid for our other transfers we organised independently enroute but worked well for us at the time.


Statues of Menom on Luxors West Bank
 We were picked up by private minibus at 5.30am from our dock in Hurghada Marina along with Annie and Liam off Gone with the Wind to start our Egyptian holiday. By 12.30pm we were checked into our comfortable cabins onboard and enjoying the first of many excellent meals onboard whilst overlooking the famous Nile River. A busy afternoons sightseeing included the Karnak and Luxor Temples, both outstanding sites and our first taste of the immense history Egypt holds. The following morning it was an early start to beat the intense heat of the day. After watching the Hot Air Balloons rise over the West Bank we visited the Valley of the Kings, Temple of Queen Hatshepust and the Colossi of Memnon. They were all excellent, although very hot and busy. It was back onboard to let the lines go and we headed south down the Nile as we enjoyed the afternoon at leisure lazing in the shade by the pool, watching life on the Nile pass us by. Late afternoon entertainment was provided when we slowed to transit the Esna lock. The local stallholders take to their boats and throw items of clothing, shawls, rugs, really anything they can onto the ship in the hope that the tourists will like them. If you do then you start the bartering process yelling backwards and forwards until the price is agreed then you throw down the money in a plastic bag and hope it lands in their boat!!!! All very entertaining and many purchases were made.

Day 3 dawned hot and sunny yet again and there were more sights to see. A morning tour to the excellent Temple of Horus in Edfu followed by a short shopping excursion then it was back onboard for another restful afternoon as we headed further south. Our late afternoon stop was at Kom-Ombo Temple, positioned beautifully on a bend in the Nile overlooking the setting sun. Running the gauntlet through the stalls to get back onboard before sailing time was not an easy task. That evening onboard was fancy dress Egyptian style and many of the previous day’s purchases were worn in high spirits. Another early start on day 4 was not welcome after a late night but there was more to see.


Temple of Edfu
 We had arrived at Aswan and visited the great modern Nile engineering feat, the High Dam. This was followed by a short local boat trip out to Philae Island. Here they have resited a temple that would have been lost underwater when the dam was built. This has been undertaken in many places in this area with the help of UNESCO and has truly saved many historical treasures that would have been covered for all time. Next up it was time for our felucca ride around Elephantine Island, unfortunately the wind didn’t come out to play so we didn’t get much of a sail in. Then that was the end of the pre-planned activities so we relaxed and enjoyed another leisurely afternoon on the ship with our unobstructed Nile view, and even caught up on some much needed sleep.


Next morning the 4 of us taxied to the local bus station and boarded the early Upper Egypt Bus Company bus to Abu Simbel. Big mistake, but we must all learn the hard way and it was an experience. All looked ok to start with but before we had even left Aswan we were diverted to the bus company depot and all changed onto a bus that would not have passed a safety inspection in most countries for at least 10 years. It had just been hosed out, so seats (which weren’t actually attached to the frames), floor, basically everything was wet so the only dry seats we could get were at the back, above the motor. Oh well, it was only 4 hours, it would be fine. But it got hotter, and hotter, and hotter, to the point where we couldn’t put our feet on the floor. This was combining nicely with the outside air temperature which was over 40 degrees and of course this bus didn’t have air-conditioning. Surprisingly we actually arrived safely and almost on time, way more by good luck than the drivers skills. We were escorted by a local military man to our overnight accommodation just 4 minutes walk away, the Eskaleh, ph 0020 (97) 340 1288, 40Euro double room. It sits lakeside in a quiet street and is a traditional Nubian mudbrick house. Our cute room had air-con, fan, ensuite and free wifi, (or free use of their computer) the owners and staff were absolute delights and the food very good, the only downside was no swimming pool which might have been good.

Flat out on the Nile after another busy
 morning spent sightseeing
Time for relaxing during the heat of the day then at 4.30pm we headed to the Temples of Ramses the Great and his wife, about 20 minutes walk away. This is the best time of the day to visit as over 95% of the visitors to Abu Simbel do it as a very long day trip from Aswan and have been and gone long before lunch. We had the luxury of exploring with only a handful of others and stayed until the caretaker locked up at 7pm. Then we purchased our tickets for the Sound and Light Show and went back in and enjoyed hearing the history of Ramses and the visual effects of the lighting on the temples exterior. Alone these temples are truly magnificent, but what makes them even more special was that they were also moved when the dam was built to a new site about 70 metres higher than their original location. This was a huge undertaking and has been done superbly, with even the broken pieces lying as they would have fallen. Some parts were repaired, some cleaning was also done, and then they tunnelled it all into the hillside overlooking the Nile. I am sure even Ramses would have approved.

This was a big side trip almost back down to the Sudanese boarder, but a definite highlight of our Nile Valley minibreak. Next morning we did the wise thing and asked the hotel to organise a private car for us and we joined the 10am tourist convoy to Aswan. Our driver then organised another car to take us on the 2pm convoy to Luxor where we stayed the night at the St Joseph Hotel, on the Corniche. The room was comfortable with air con, ensuite with bathtub, lake views, balcony, rooftop swimming pool, free WIFI, and breakfast included for USD30. The staff were helpful and booked a private minivan for the 4 of us to join the following afternoon’s convoy back to Balvenie and Gone with the Wind in Hurghada. Our final mornings sightseeing included a ride on a horse and carriage with the obligatory stop at the papyrus market, and a leisurely look through the Luxor Museum which has been set out very well, with some excellent pieces recently discovered in Luxor Temple, a couple of mummies, some pieces from Tutankhamun’s Tomb and a host of other interesting artefacts, all displayed well and explained (in English). The transfer worked well and we arrived home to the marina before dark, having very much enjoyed our 8 day excursion. A new adventure awaited us, the Gulf of Suez and the Suez Canal.

See our web album for more photos http://picasaweb.google.com/yachtbalvenie/2008Egypt
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From Noonsite - Asian Piracy Conference

U S Coastguard Helping Asian Countries Against Piracy

Neighboring countries working together in Asia have reduced serious maritime piracy incidents but the concept needs to be expanded, according to experts at the first gathering of the South Asia Regional Port Security Cooperative (SARPSCO), supported by the U.S. Coast Guard.

Southeast Asia is no longer regarded as the world's most dangerous piracy zone because of joint maritime and aerial patrolling among the littoral states of the Malacca Strait, said conference speakers.

For the most serious types of piracy, where entire ships are seized and crews removed, sometimes being thrown overboard, "the numbers have indeed shown a downward trend over the last five years," says Nicholas Teo, the Deputy Director of the Information Sharing Center of the Regional Cooperation Agreement on Combating Piracy and Armed Robbery against Ships in Asia (ReCAAP).

Countering piracy, robberies and terrorism at ports and at sea by sharing information, best practices and resources are being discussed here at a first-of-its-kind port security conference for nine central Indian Ocean maritime states. They are: Bangladesh, Comoros, India, Madagascar, Maldives, Mauritius, Oman, Pakistan and Sri Lanka.

In addition to coast guards, customs agencies, maritime administrations, navies and transportation ministries, also attending SARPSCO are international port operators.

While the situation in Southeast Asia has improved, the number of violent attacks on commercial vessels and pleasure craft is increasing elsewhere, notably in the western Indian Ocean, Gulf of Aden and Red Sea.

The U.S. Coast Guard facilitated the inaugural four-day SARPSCO meeting.

"We have been and are able to offer capacity building to the region," says Capt. Gerald M. Swanson, commanding officer of U.S. Coast Guard Activities Far East. "We are willing to share information and best security practices with all maritime stakeholders."

US Coast Guard Activities Far East, headquartered at Tokyo, is one of only two overseas Coast Guard commands and responsible for facilitating port security, maritime safety and international engagement throughout a 41-nation Asia-Pacific region.

www.uscghawaii.com/go/doc/800/203625/

Comment: There is still a need to be vigilant. While the commercial acts are declining, there are still attacks occurring against pleasure craft - please be vigilant about providing your own self protection.

NYC 2008 Icebreaker Social

Tea Cup Notice of Race

Due to the late start to the season and many boats not being ready we are moving the Tea Cup Race from this weekend to Saturday May 31st.

Skippers meeting will be at 9:00am on Saturday the 31st with a planned 10:30am start. Weather permitting we would like to have 1 - 3 races ending around 1:30pm with both working and flying sails classes. Racing will take place in Pine Portage Bay and will be a Windward Leeward format. It has been suggested Moore Bay as a anchorage after the race those who are interested in leaving the harbour overnight.

Race Instructions will be available at the skippers meeting and in advance by email request to northernyachtclub@gmail.com.

Egypt - Where history began ... Apr - May 2008




Crabcastles in the sand at Ras Banas
26 Apr - 19 May 2008


We have been in Egypt now for nearly a month. Our run of dream weather with favourable winds came to a very abrupt end at midnight on the 26th April as we were crossing Foul Bay (aptly named) from Sudan to Egypt. We were hit with a nasty northerly of over 25 knots and experienced our first taste of the famous short steep chop of the Red Sea, unlike any wave action we have come across previously, basically they just stop the boat. So although our target had been Dolphin Reef we bore away about 20 miles short of it and headed in company with Gone with the Wind for Ras Banas. Its a very low lying, windswept, remote spot with a sandy beach and a small army outpost of just 2 personnel. The following 7 days saw more action at Ras Banas than probably has ever been seen. We ended up with a united nations collection of 11 yachts sheltering from the howling winds, 4 of them very skilled wind and kite surfers who were out enjoying every second and entertained us all. We even partook in windswept walks on the beach, choppy snorkeling, very wet dinghy rides and soaked up enforced downtime.




The magical Dolphins at Dolphin Reef
On the 8th day the wind eased just long enough for a mad dash up to Dolphin Reef to join up with another 6 yachts taking refuge in there. Dolphin Reef is slightly dry at all times so affords good shelter in flat water from the seas but no wind shelter at all, but the winds were easing and we had come to swim with the resident pod of dolphins and were not disappointed. We swam amongst over 100 dolphins of all sizes for over an hour, till our little legs just couldn't keep up with them any more. I can only describe this as a highlight of one of the things we are so lucky to be able to do because we have our own boat and the time and flexibility to wait for nature and the amazing sights she has shown us. Just brilliant.

Moving on the next day in calm waters we just kept on going about 64 miles and anchored the night at Samedi Reef. More underwater treats awaited us when we decided to snorkel the reef entrance. There were two huge bommies, with a good array of live coral, very clear water to 20 metres and an excellent selection of small to medium sized fish, with over a dozen varieties we hadn't seen before. This would have to go down as one of the best snorkels we have had since Papua New Guineas Louisiade Archipelago, even if somewhat colder water. Egypt was treating us after such a rough start!!!



Evening camel tour at Port Ghalib
We kept heading north while the winds were light and arrived in Port Ghalib to officially check into Egypt on May 06. Port Ghalib is under construction. They are building an entire new city and have started with the port and waterways area, to date there are a few “American” style restaurants, ATM machines, gift shops and a couple of hotels. The marina, at this point is a very long concrete wall to tie onto, with some med mooring spots also. We had no power facilities, metered water was available via an extremely long hose which didn’t quite reach us as we were at the end, rubbish disposable was charged at USD1 per bag, WIFI was available at USD10 per hour or USD20 per day (not a typo!!!!) but we did get plenty of free layers dust and sand from the building works, and the most flies we have had anywhere. However, check in facilities were reasonably fast and efficient and much cheaper than checking in at Hurghada the next option. Ghalib is really in the middle of nowhere but we relaxed for a couple of days then decided to brave it and try another overnighter to Abu Tig Marina at El Guana, about 15miles north of Hurghada.



All us on the marina wall at Port Ghalib
We had a good weather forecast and left with light winds and flat seas, put the throttle down and motorsailed in light winds. In the afternoon a light southerly set in, and although that is the perfect wind when heading north we were cautious from our previous experience across Foul Bay that southerlies are short lived and turn to strong northerlies at a moments notice, generally in the wee small hours. Unfortunately this was to be no exception and by 3am we had 25 – 30 knots from the Northwest with the short choppy seas that make headway difficult. Fortunately we, along with Gone with the Wind, had made very good time and were almost abeam of the reefs outside Hurghada. Skipper made a good call and as day broke we started heading in through the reefs and ran along the coastline in much calmer water. We passed Hurghada and continued onto Abu Tig for about half an hour but we got out of the reef shelter again and at 8am on May 09 turned back and went into Hurghada Marina and undertook with much trepidation in 30 knots our first “med mooring” experience!!!!

Hurghada Marina has a great location less than 5 minutes walk from the main tourist strip and the old town. It’s very touristy with mainly Russian tourists but compared to the rest of Egypt it is pretty laid back. The marina area is almost completed and will be smart when it’s all finished. Power and water were metered but not expensive, WIFI was free and accessible onboard, berthing charges up to 16m USD20 per day or USD300 per month and it wasn’t too dusty and will be better when all works are completed. It is a good place to leave the boat while off land travelling as it is close to Luxor and the Nile Valley. We took a day trip up to Abu Tig Marina to check whether it would be a better option. It is in an enclosed “tourist environment”, all western restaurants, hotels, very little privacy if stern to, pool club access by membership, WIFI charged and we heard from friends noisy at night with music into the wee small hours. We decided to remain in Hurghada.

For anchorage information on Egypt see the "Gulf of Suez - A sting in the tale" posting with detailed info on the above anchorages

See all our Egypt photos on our web album http://picasaweb.google.com/yachtbalvenie/2008Egypt
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Nana Maria 3rd in the 2008 Atlantic Cup


Volvo Open 70 Build Visit

by Chris Cochran, Design Engineer

Working at Farr Yacht Design is truly a unique experience and an amazing opportunity to see projects become reality. As a structural engineer and a sailor, working as part of the design team and communicating daily with the boat builders, project managers, sailing teams, and shore support teams you gain a perspective of the endeavor and efforts required to compete in an event like the Volvo Ocean Race.

Farr Yacht Design utilizes a “Team Approach” in our design process; all design team members are involved with every project, contributing in their area of specialty. Hull shape and design, foils and appendage design, structural engineering, deck geometry and layout, performance analysis and rating optimization specialists all working together on every project; it is impressive to be involved in the design meetings and hear everyone contribute. But the most interesting aspect is being on-site with the project and interacting with the sailing team.

April 2007 I (along with fellow Farr structural engineers Pete Levesque and Mark Bishop) had the opportunity to sail on the original Volvo Open 70, Brasil-1. We assisted Team Alicante with delivering the boat from Gosport, UK to the Atlantic coast town of Sanxenxo, Spain, near the start of the 2005-2006 Volvo Ocean Race. During this roughly 800nm trek we had opportunities to see first hand the remarkable speeds, performance and loads associated with the Volvo Open 70. This was particularly timely since, upon our return to the office, we were to redesign components of Brasil-1 to be utilized as a training platform for Team Alicante and continue our R&D work on the 2nd generation Volvo Open 70 design.

As a follow up to our efforts, in February 2008, I traveled to Valencia, Spain to visit with Team Alicante, our exclusive clients for the 2008-2009 Volvo Ocean Race. The main purpose for my trip was to spend some time with the builders, and work with the team to sort out the final design & construction details of our 2nd generation Volvo Open70s, now well under way.

While in Spain I also had the opportunity to visit the team’s training base in Alicante, about 190 km South-Southwest of Valencia. The sailing team had just returned from a week long offshore session, training on the old Brasil 1; they were having a series of debriefs with the various sailmakers & riggers that consist of the shore crew. The base is well set up now, and it always amazes me to see what can be accomplished with a half dozen shipping containers and some large canopies.

The builder for Team Alicante boat #1 is King Marine, located just outside of Valencia. Boat #2 for this team is being built by Southern Ocean Marine in New Zealand. This international team of boat-builders is doing a great job, creating a state-of-the-art speed machine, carefully laminating every ply of carbon. The Volvo Open 70’s have a high-level of detailed design work associated with the canting keel mechanisms, twin lifting dagger-boards, twin rudders, sail-handling systems, etc. We have spent many hours working with the crew and other experts, considering how the boats operate to arrive at good, light-weight and reliable solutions for all the intricate details. However, seeing these boats in person gives you a vastly different perspective as compared to seeing the drawings on a 20” computer screen. When standing inside the hull I couldn’t help realizing how massive and powerful this generation of Volvo Open 70’s is going to be and my thoughts went back to power reaching on Brasil-1 and just how fortunate I was to have experienced this first hand. The builders are now in the final stages of assembling these systems and we look forward to the launch and first sail to see the product of our labors in action.

-Chris Cochran, Design Engineer

Update from the Atlantic Cup

Update from Mark and Janel Seier on Nana Maria in this years Atlantic Cup. Members Fred Finlayson and Jim Fogg are on board as crew.

As I write this we are now 500 miles south of Bermuda...

Our race began on Saturday at noon. We had an early morning weather briefing that told us we should expect very light east wind. Sounded good to us so off we went. The nice calm easterlies lasted long enough for us to launch our spinnaker (the huge colorfull sail) and then see the wind pick up to 20 knots. Such not a good thing as these sails are meant to be flown in very light air. They are made from rip stop nylon. One of the lines got caught in a block and exploded. The spinnaker was now free flying and going to be very hard to get down. Thank goodness we had the crew we had as there quick thinking avoided a major disaster.

The light wind was a thing of the past and we had high winds and seas for all of Saturday and Sunday. To say it felt like we were in a washing machine was putting it mildly.. I get sea sick at the best of times and this trip was no exception. I finally found my sea legs late yesterday...

Today is a much better day for us all. The wind has died, the seas are flat and we are TRUCKING toward Bermuda. We have cleaned ourselves , cleaned the boat, fixed the sail and the bimini. Fozzie is a happy camper and is also back on his food. The things we do to that poor dog..... The only thing that could make the day perfect is to catch a fish, I am working on that though... with any luck we will have Mahi Mahi for supper tonight.. More later...

Janel, Mark and the Foz


If you want to monitor their progress you can check it out the web-site http://www.carib1500.com/ac/index.htm and check out The Rally From the Caribbean their positions. Boat Name is Nana Maria.

Power outage in Kenora this weekend

Update to let everyone know that the power will be out at the harbour on Saturday May 3rd from 12:30 to 4:30. Also it will be out in Kenora on Sunday May 4th from 6:30 am until 2:00 pm. There is however a free pancake breakfast on the harbourfront and some of the local restaurants have backup generators.

US Homeland Security Chief outlines marine protection strategy

More security news pertaining to recreational boating


US Homeland Security Chief outlines marine protection strategy

By IBI Magazine

Speaking to members of the American Boating Congress (ABC) this week, Michael Chertoff, Secretary of the Department of Homeland Security, outlined a general plan of action to combat potential terrorists threats in US waters. Chertoff also used the occasion to introduce the department's latest report, the DHS Small Vessel Security Strategy, which will be a blueprint for moving forward.

"You all know that there is of course a real connection between the security issues we confront at the department, and boating," said Chertoff. "Even though 9/11 involved aircraft, before 9/11 there was in fact the Cole bombing, and before the Cole bombing there was the attempted bombing of the U.S.S. Sullivan. We have to, therefore, accept the reality that there is a risk to our security that comes from someone misusing a boat for terrorist purposes."

Chertoff said that the US has "literally thousands of miles of coastline" as well as 361 ports, including eight of the world's 50 highest volume ports, and 10,000 miles of navigable waterways. "According to a 2007 U.S. Coast Guard study of 9 U.S. ports, there were approximately 3,000 small commercial vessels, 3,000 fishing vessels, and 400,000 recreational vessels in the vicinity of important maritime infrastructure in this country," he said.

The Homeland Security Chief said that small boats could be used to smuggle in terrorists or weapons of mass destruction or even be used as weapons against ports. "And making it particularly difficult to address these threats is the fact that we don't have a complete operation picture of the domestic and international recreational boating public, their travel patterns, and the facilities that they use," said Chertoff. "While we've made tremendous strides in port and cargo security and protecting our coastal and inland waterways, we have some serious security gaps that we need to close."

Chertoff said that he wants to use boaters as "the eyes and ears" of law enforcement agencies to prevent possible terrorist threats. "The strategy recognizes as a cornerstone that as members of the small vessel community, you have a stake in securing maritime domain," he said. "If it turns out we see bombs exploding on our waterways, it is not going to be really good for boaters, and it's not going to be really good for the boating business. We all have not only a stake as citizens but there's an economic business case for being involved in this partnership to manage the risk."

Chertoff said that programs like America's Waterway Watch, in which boaters report suspicious activities to the Coast Guard through a National Response Center, has resulted in some successes with criminals. "This is a program that works and we want to continue to make sure it is supported and grows," he said.

Chertoff also said that Homeland Security would compile and share information to identify potential threats. "A little more information allows us to target more precisely the people that we all ought to be worried about as opposed to taking a kind of a broad gauged, sweeping approach, which actually winds up inconveniencing more people," he said.

The CBP Pleasure Boat Reporting System, the Coast Guard's Vessel Identification System, and the Coast Guard's Marine Information for Safety and Law Enforcement would be used to identify possible threats. "Building and integrating this kind of information as well as other intelligence sources, information from the State Department, from foreign governments, and the use of trusted-traveler programs will give us a better picture of who is out there and allow us to be more focused on who we need to be concerned about," he said, adding that the Coast Guard might lower its tonnage rule for ships to include more commercial vessels and large yachts in a rule that requires 96-hour advance notice before entering US ports.

"The third area of our strategy is leveraging technology, because using technology gives us a real value add in our ability to identify, pursue and respond to threats," said Chertoff. "Again, we don't want to track every little boat out there on the waterways. But we do want to explore options with respect to surveillance and traffic, particularly in high-risk critical infrastructure areas. We're not looking to comprehensive, have big brother on sea, but we do need to start to look at some of the areas of risk to make sure we have a visibility to who's moving around in those areas."

Chertoff said that Homeland Security will expand "investment and research" into small-vehicle identification systems, but he avoided saying specifically that they would be installed on all boats.

The Coast Guard is also testing a pilot program in Washington state that detects radioactive or nuclear material on small vessels entering a port. "Vessels coming into the channel entering into a port area would pass by detection devices," said Chertoff. "They wouldn't have to stop. And those detection devices would be configured to determine whether or not there are radioactive admissions of a kind that are associated with a possible dirty bomb or nuclear device."

"Finally, we want to continue to enhance our coordination and communication among all of our partners," said Chertoff. "This means not only domestic partners, obviously but foreign partners as well. So, within our own department we are cross training between Customs, and Border Protection and Coast Guard so that we can leverage the capabilities of both components across each of them. To the extent we can, with respect to those foreign countries that operate adjacent to our water, we want do the same kind of partnering that will further leverage and increase our ability to have an umbrella of protection around our waterways."

The full DHS Small Vessel Security Strategy report can be viewed at http://www.dhs.gov/xprevprot/programs/gc_1199394950818.shtm

(2 May 2008)